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HANDBOOK OF DATA ON THE USE OF

COPPER AS A FLASHING MATERIAL WITH
STANDARD DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION &
SPECIFICATIONS FOR SHEET- COPPER WORK

SECOND EDITION

FEBRUARY

1925

COPPER AND BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

25 BROADWAY, NEW YORK

[BLANK PAGE]

INTFRN ATIOMAI

New York

EW developments in materials and methods of con-
struction during the last decade or so have given
rise to many problems concerning proper flashing
practice under various conditions. Because copper
is the recognized standard material for flashings
many inquiries on recommended practice have been
received by this Association, and have resulted in this effort to codify
what is believed to be the best practice for copper flashings.

This book not only contains the results of long and thorough
study and research work on our part, but also embodies the practical
experience of leading architects and roofing contractors.

Differences of opinion regarding, for instance, the use of "soft"
or "hard" copper, and the necessity for expansion joints in gutter
linings, were encountered and have been met by recommending what
we consider to be the best practice. In the text the reader will find
a full discussion of such points of difference.

It rarely happens that the early editions of books are free from
errors. The Association therefore will appreciate information re-
garding any that may appear, as well as any comments or criticisms
which will help to improve the book in its later editions.

March, 1924.

The second edition has been revised, and changed in numerous
places. It should be noted, however, that these changes and revi-
sions are in the nature of improvements in methods and descriptions
of methods. The fundamental principles enumerated on page one
have not been affected. Additions to the subject matter of the book
have been made in one or two places.

The first edition of this book created considerable comment, and
brought forth many constructive criticisms. All of these criticisms,
which helped to improve the book, have been incorporated in the
second edition.

February 1925.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT TO FIRST EDITION

The Association acknowledges with thanks the assistance of Thomas Nolan, F. A. I. A.,
Professor of Architectural Construction, University of Pennsylvania, for editorial criticism and
other suggestions regarding the contents of this book. Acknowledgment for invaluable coopera-
tion is also made to

American Bridge Company

American Face Brick Association

American Institute of Architects, Structural Service
Committee

Associated Tile Manufacturers

Atlantic Terra Cotta Company
Atlas Roofing Company
Grosvenor Atterbury, Architect
Elliot C. Brown Co., Builders
Carrere and Hastings, Architects
Wm. F. Clark Co., Roofers

Common Brick Manufacturers' Association of America

Crawfordsville Foundry Co.

E. I. Dupont de Nemours & Co.

Guilbert and Beteller, Architects

Wallace R. Harris, International Trade Press, Inc.

Hollow Building Tile Association

U. T. Hungerford Brass & Copper Co.

C. G. Hussey & Co.

Indiana Limestone Quarrymen's Association

Sullivan W. Jones, State Architect, New York

Master Sheet Metal & Roofers Association
of Boston

Henry G. Morse, Architect

McKenzie, Gmelin & Voorhees, Architects

McKim, Mead & White, Architects

National Brass & Copper Co.

National Sheet Metal Roofing Co.

Nicholson & Galloway, Roofers

Geo. B. Post & Sons, Builders

Rising & Nelson Slate Co.

Thomas Robinson, Architect

St. Louis Technical Institute

Herman E. Schanzlin Co., Roofers

The Sheet Metal Worker and its Predecessors

Taunton-New Bedford Copper Company

Walter H. Tinney Co., Roofers

Thompson-Starrett Co., Builders

Trowbridge & Livingston, Architects

Turner Construction Co., Builders

E. Van Noorden Co., Boston, Roofers

Vermont Marble Co.

Chas. W. Killam, Associate Professor of Architec- Otto Walters, Concrete Roofing Tile

ture, Harvard University
Klein & Kavanaugh, Roofers
Fred T. Ley, Inc., Builders
Marc Eidlitz & Son, Builders

Warren & Wetmore, Architects
Wells Construction Co., Builders
Chas. T. Wills, Inc., Builders
Ira H. Woolson, Consulting Engineer

And to Many Others.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT TO SECOND EDITION

Space does not permit mention of the names of all who have assisted in
revising this book. To those whose interest in the general subject of im-
provement in the art of flashing prompted them to offer to us the benefit of
their knowledge and experience, the Association extends its sincere thanks.

INDEXED TABLE OF CONTENTS

["FIG." refers to the Standard Details and Special Notes, pages 2 to 27;
"SPEC." refers to the Standard Specifications, pages 29 to 42.]

Page

Acid, Use as a Flux 52

Area of Leaders 58

Asphalt Paints, Use of 45

FIGS. 29, 43

SPEC. §70

Base Flashings 50

— Built-up Roofings 26

—SPEC. §28

Bends in Sheets 1, 54

—FIGS. 35, 54
Brass, Edge-Strips (See Edge-Strips)

Gutter Hangers 64

Leader Hooks 65

Nails 51

Screws, Use of

—FIGS. 12, 17, 18, 19, 23, 25, 37, 39, 41, 42. 63

Bronze Bars, Dowels, Etc . 44

—FIGS. 23. 56, 59 t 62, 65

Building Paper, Use of 1, 2, 46

—SPEC. §8
Built- Up Roofings

Federal Specifications Board 26

—FIGS. 14, 21, 28, 37, 39, 40
—SPEC, §46, 48

Cap or Counter-Flashings 2, 50

—SPEC. §29

Caps for Eaves Trough 63

Caulking , 54

— for Goosenecks

—FIGS. 43, 45, 53
—SPEC. 571, 73, 74

— for Reglets 54

—FIGS. 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58
—SPEC. 564
Cement Tile (See Tile Roofings)
Chimney Flashings

—FIGS. 2, 3, 4, 51

Cleats 1,51

—SPEC. 524
Columns, — Flashings for

—FIGS. 20, 21
—SPEC. §42, 43

Concrete, Copper Over 45

Conductors (See Leaders)
Continuous Flashings

—SPEC. 527
Copper

and Other Metals 56

— Cleaning 57

—SPEC. 586

— Coloring 57

—SPEC. 587

— Crimped 48

—SPEC. 522

— Difference between Hard and Soft 46

—Hard (C. T.) 1, 46

—SPEC. 510
-Lock (See Seams, Double Lock)

Over Concrete 45

— Painting 57

—SPEC. 588
— Quality of

—SPEC. 59

Sheets, Weight and Gage of 47

— Size of, for Gutters. . 48

—SPEC. 523
—Soft (R. T.) 1, 46. 48, 61

—SPEC. 510

— Strip 1, 60

— Table of Weights and Gages 47

— Use of 14-ounce 47, 66

— Use of 1 8-ounce 47

Cornices,— Copper 45, 47

—SPEC. 582
Cricket (Saddle) Flashings

—FIG, 3
—SPEC. 535
Curbs, — Flashings around

—SPEC. 552

Damage, — Precaution against

—SPEC. 55

Doors, — Flashings around

—FIGS. 11, 15. 16, 17. 18. 19
—SPEC. 536, 37. 38. 39

Page

Downspouts (See Leaders)

Dowels (See Bronze Bars, etc.)

Drains, (see Roof Drains)

Drips. 47. 54

—FIGS. 12, 17, 18, 19, 59, 60

—SPEC. §54
Drawings, General Notes on 2

Eaves-Strips 54

—SPEC. 555
Eaves Trough 47, 62

—SPEC. 556
Edge-Strips 54

—FIGS. 12, 17, 18, 19, 22, 23, 37, 41

—SPEC. §53
Elastic Cement, — Use of 45, 54

—FIG. 55

Electrolytic Action 50, 56

End Pieces for Gutters 63

Erosion *%•* 56

Estimates 59

Expansion and Contraction 54

Expansion Joints 53

—FIG. 44

—SPEC. 575
— for Concrete Roofs

—FIG. 44
Exposed Edges 2.53

—SPEC. §25

Factory Construction

FIGS. 67, 68, 69, 70, 71
Fastenings for Flashings 50, 5 1

—SPEC. §24
Flag Poles, — Flashings for

—FIG. 31

—SPEC. 549
Flux, — Use of 152

—SPEC, §13
"Fold Over,"— The

—FIG. 7

—SPEC. 533
Free-Locked Seams (See Seams, Loose-Locked)

Galvanic Action 50,56

Goosenecks (See Lead Goosenecks)
Gravel- Stops

—FIGS. 37, 39, 43
—SPEC. 547
Guarantee

—SPEC. 56
Gutters

— Built-in . 43

—SPEC. §68, 69, 70

— Double Seams in m , 48

— Longitudinal Seams in ... 48

—FIGS. 34, 53, 54, 58, 61, 63, 64

— Molded 62

—FIG. 23
—SPEC. 557

— Molded, Linings for 48

—FIG. 23

—SPEC. §58
— Outlets for 58, 63

—FIGS. 34, 43, 45, 46, 53

—SPEC. 571
—Pole

—FIG. 24

—SPEC. §59

— Proportioning 57

— Recommended Construction 48

— Saw Tooth Construction

—FIGS. 34, 35, 36
— Snow in

—FIG. 34
— Stone Construction 45

—FIGS. 53, 54. 57
— Strip (See Gutters, Pole)
— Terra Cotta Construction 43. 44

—FIGS. 61. 62

—Use of Double Seams in 48

Guy Wire, — Flashings Around Anchors for

—FIGS. 26. 31

—SPEC. 545

Hangers for Gutters 54

Hip and Ridge Flashings

—FIGS. 4, 26, 34. 42, 47

—SPEC. §41

{Continued on next page)

INDEXED TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued)

Pagb

Ice Box, — Drain Pan for

—SPEC. $84

Killed Acid,— Use of (See Acid, Use of)

Lead,

• •

Lead Goosenecks

—FIGS. 43, 45, 53

—SPEC. $71, 73, 74
-Use of Sheet

—FIGS. 39. 63
— Molten, Use of 54

—FIG. 55

—SPEC. 564

— Wedges for Reglets 45

— White, Use of for Seams . . 53

—Wool, Use of 54

—FIGS. 55, 58

—SPEC. §64
Leaders 47, 64

—SPEC. §62

— Elbows 65

—Heads 65

—SPEC. §63
— Hooks 65

—SPEC. §62

^Proportioning 59

— Shoes 65

—SPEC. §62
— Straps . . . . 65

—SPEC. §62
—Temporary

—SPEC. §71

Lime Mortar for filling Reglets 45

Louvres

—SPEC. §81

Mitres for Gutters 63

Nails 1.51

—SPEC. §14
Nailing, — Directions for 1, 50

Old and New V rk.— Flashings for

- SPEC. §79

Paper (See Building Paper)

Parap< Walls . .

—FIGS 53. 54. 57, 59. 60, 61. 67. 68. 69. 70. 71
Patent F hi rigs and Drains. . .

—FIGS 29, 46. 53
—SPEC. §32. 49, 73

Proportioning Gutters and leaders

Refilr r§ 44. 45. 54

— FICs S3, 54. 55, 57. 58. 64
—SPEC:. §64. 65

Ridges. (Set- lip Flashings)
Roll Copper (See Copp -Strip)
Roof Drains

I ICS I 45. 46. 5*

- SP1 I §73. 74

Roof Slopes 50

— SPW §18

Roan.— Use as a Flux 1,52

— SI 113

Saddle* (See Crick
Saw Too* s, — tiers in

— FIC 14. 35, 36

— SPI( . I

—FIGS. 3(- K. 62
—SPEC. *66, 67
Scuttles

SPEC. |51

— Double Lock 48. 50

- SPEC. |2U
Long lal 48

—1 ICS 34. 5 54. 58. 1 . 63. 64
Loose- Locked 1.48,50

—SPEC til

of .1.49

—SPEC. |19

ea thing.— Wood. 1.46

Pagb

,, Shingle , • Roofings 2

"Shingle" Flashings

—SPEC. §60

Shingles. — Copper 2

Size of Sheets 61

—SPEC. $23
Size of Sheets for Gutters 48

Skylights

—SPEC. $80

Snow

-Boards in Gutters

—FIG. 34
Guards

—SPEC. §83

in Large Gutters

—FIG. 34
Solder 1. 53

—SPEC. §12
Soldering 1,53

—SPEC. §17
Soldering Coppers 1, 53

—SPEC. §16

Specifications 29

Steel Struts, — Flashings Around

—FIG. 28

—SPEC. §48
Step Flashings

—SPEC. §31
Stone, — Flashings for 45

—FIGS. 53, 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 71

—SPEC. §76

Stock Packages 66

Strainers. — Cast

—FIGS. 43. 46. 53

—SPEC. §70
—Wire Basket 65

—FIG. 45

—SPEC. §61
Stucco Walls, — Flashings against

—FIG. 14

—SPEC. §29

Sulphur. — Use for Caulking 54

Surfaces, — Examination of 1

—SPEC. §4
— Preparation of 1, 45, 46

—SPEC. §7

Terra Cotta, — Flashings for 43. 44

—FIGS. 59. 60. 61, 62. 63, 64, 65, 66

—SPEC. §77, 78
Thimbles. Caps. etc.

—FIGS. 26. 56. 63. 66
Tile Roofings, — Flashings for 45

—SPEC. §50
—Clay

—FIGS. 41, 47. 48. 49
— Concrete

—FIGS. 50. 51. 52
Tin 1. 52

—SPEC. §11
Tinning 1.52

—SPEC. §15
Turnback (Foldback, etc.)— (See Exposed Edges)

Vents, — J iashings for

—FIGS. 27. 29. 30. 50

—SPEC. §32
Ventilators, — Flashings for

—FIGS. 25. 26

- SPEC. §44
Valley Flashings
— Closed

—FIGS. 32. 33

—SPEC. §34

FIGS. 5. 6. 7, 9
SPEC. §33

Water-Bars..

—FIGS. 11 62, 63

—SPEC. §37. 38. 39
Waterproofing Compounds

—FIGS. 26. 28. 44. 63, 66
Watertablc.— Plaahings for

—FIG. 12
SPEC. §40

Plsihimi around
FIGS. 1 8. 10. 11, 22. 52
SP> C. §36, 37. 38
ood Plugs. — Use for Fastenings. .

I JG. 41

ndows.

PART ONE

Standard Details of Construction and Specifications for Sheet-Copper

Worh

TEN RULES FOR APPLYING COPPER FLASHINGS

RULE 1

RULE 2

RULE 3

RULE 4

RULE 5

Use 16 -ounce soft (Roofing Temper) copper only.

(a) Do not use hard (Cornice Temper) copper except for cornice work.

(b) Do not use lighter than 16-ounce copper.

Prepare the laying surface carefully and see that it is smooth and even.

(a) All flashings, gutter-linings, etc., should be laid on rosin-sized paper or
asbestos felt.

(b) Sheathing boards should be ship-lap, tongued-and-grooved, or splined.

Avoid sharp bends in copper sheets.

(a) Do not crease the sheets or bend them more than 90°.

(b) Bend the sheets as little as possible before laying.

Allow for the movement of copper at intersections of roof planes by large
loose-locked joints.

(a) Never carry a copper sheet over an angle more than 3 or 4 inches.

(b) Break the sheet and lock it to the adjoining one by means of a loose- or
double-locked joint. This allows room for expansion and contraction.

Never nail copper sheets. Use cleats.

(a) By "sheet" is meant any piece ovir 12 inches wide.

(b) Use two-nail cleats \Y 2 inches wide and place them not more than 12
inches apart.

Use copper nails only— never iron or steel— for fastening strips and cleats.

(a) Flat-head, wire nails are the best.

(b) Strip copper should be nailed along one edge only.

Make full size joints and seams.

(a) Standing Seams at least 1-inch finished.

(b) Flat Seams (locked) at least H-inch finished.

(d) Double or copper-locked Seams at least H-inch finished.

RULE 8. Tin carefully and thoroughly.

(a) Use heavy tinning-coppers.

(b) Use enough tin to cover all the surface.

Use rosin as a flux rather than acid.

(a) If acid is used see that it is properly and thoroughly killed.

Plenty of solder, well-flowed over, makes strong seams.

(a) Use the best half-and-half solder and lots of it.

(b) Heat the seam thoroughly.

RULE 6

RULE 7

RULE 9

RULE 10

GENERAL NOTES— ALL DRAWINGS

1. The drawings are intended to show details for every trade involved in any particular
type of construction, and are suitable for use by the drafting room in designing details.

2. Distortion. The distortion of the details will be apparent at first glance. This has
been done for emphasis so that the treatment of the copper will be clear.

3. Arrangement. The cuts have been arranged, as nearly as possible, to show details
of flashing of different kinds for various types of construction.

4. Notes and Legend.

much

l the drawings have been simplified as much
For this reason the word "shingles" refers

small

shingles.

The edges are flattened

The expressions "cap" and "counter-"flashings are used as synonymous terms throughout.

5. Exposed Edges. We recommend the practice shown of folding all exposed or loose
edges of flashings back. The return is about y 2 inch and may be done either in the shop or on
the job. It stiffens the edge considerably and prevents lifting by the wind and clogging with
snow and ice and attendant troubles. It also makes a neat finish,
tightly together. In the drawings they have been shown slightly open for clearness.

6. Paper. The use of building paper under all flashings is recommended. To
avoid confusion it has been omitted from the drawings.

7. Patented Devices. Practically no details involving patented roofing-devices or
drains have been shown. There are many of these on the market, most of which are practicable.
We recommend the use of those devices which use eighteen-ounce or heavier copper, or cast
brass, because they repr< ent a quality product, the result of the best workmanship by reputable

manufacturers.

8. Copper Shingles. Flashings for copper shingles have not been shown. They are,
in almost every ease, of spc id design, and are supplied by the manufacturer of the shingles.

SPECIAL NOTES

i i£. 1. The flashing for a dormer window cov-
ered with shingles and on a shingle roof is shown in
1 ig. 1 . Mashing she i t s should he so placed that each

sh( i will lap tli one below i least two inches and
be st| u d by one shingle thickm Sheets should

extend up on the walls at h four inches and be

n I near the top \ th on< or i copper nails as

shown. Flashin will not b vi on th roof or

walls < pi on The roof below thi front v II where

th( lap over the top of the shingl* four inches.
Can iild be tal n to that each ^heet tx\ nds

abo\ c the shingle on w huh it rests so it may be nailed

v in puncturing the shingle.

Fig. 2. A chimney on the slope of a shingle

roof i^ shown in Fi 11 I fla.* uk n tl

roof ai P rated and fastened as in Fie. L This

method is better than that >hown in Fig. 4. Cap

structed and stepped as required by the slope of the
roof. J hey should be built into the joints of the
brick work about two inches. ich sheet should lap

outside the one below at least two or three nnhes.

flashin

uld e built in

the chimne\ is con-

Fig. 3. A cricket, or saddle, should be formed

back of all chimneys to throw the water to either side
of the chimney as shown in Fig. 3. It is generally
formed of wood, slop 1 enough to shed water, and
covered with copj , thus i rming a base flashing,
which is urned uj on the brick work, and cap flashed
as described in Fig- 2.

Fig. 4. The method of flashing a chimney on

the ridge of a shingle roof is shown in Fig. 4. The
base flashing is here shown in one large sheet but it
may be made in small sheets as described in Fig. 2,
1 he small-piece method is recommended. The < p
flashing is formed as d cribed in 1 ,s. 2 and 3.

FLASHINGS 7D 3F h/CYEAl /NTO SHINGL E
COURSES ■ EACH ft ASHING SHEET 7V LAP

THE NEXT LOWER ATLEAST TWO INCHES

»F

XVv

,•

CAP FLASHINGS TO

LAP AT I CAST Th'O
INCHES

EASE TLASHIS/G TO
3E WOUEN ///TO SWNfL
COURSES AND EXTEND
t?P UNDER CAP FLASH-
ING ATLEAST FOUR
INCHES

7f*

DU/L TIN 3A5E rLA5EIINQfDR DORMER
WINDOW ON SM/NOL C ROOr

COPPER cove PEP crick ft- CORPS P. sxtfnos

UP UND£R SHINGLES AT LEAST SIX INCHES
COPPER TURNED UP AGAINST CHlFf NET AND
COUN TER FLASHED

SHINGLtS TO LAP

CUPPER AT LEAST
FOUR INCHES

CAP flA SHINGS
TO LAP AT LEAST
TWO INCHES

COPPER CAP
FLASHING —

LAP* SEAM
SOL PER ID

3U/L 7 //V 3A5C r LA5H I NO rOR CMIMNC Y /q\
ON SL OPE Or SHI NO L E ROOr \~J

■^M

CAP ft ASHING s

TO LAP AT LEAST
2 INCHES

CAP FLASHING

3ASE FLASHNG

ISP

SHIA/GL ES

COPPER AT LEAST
<? INCHES

t *+

-f

C4PELASHING
TOLAPEHSE
SHINb .47

/fPfa,*/

FLASHING TV/? CHIMNEY ON JLOPEf^\\ FLASHING IDPCH/MNE Y ON P/DOE
OF SH/NOLE POOF \$J\ OF SH/NOLE POOF

STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig. 5. When two adjoining slopes of a roof

deliver unequal quantities of water to a valley, the
larger quantity of water may force the smaller quan-
tity back on itself and up beyond the top of the
flashing. To prevent this a 1 inch crimp is sometimes
put in the copper at the bottom of the valley. This
breaks the force of water and prevents it from ascend-
ing the opposite slope-
Instead of the crimp shown an angle, or a Tee,
formed of copper, may be used. It is soldered to the
valley sheet on the slope opposite the one which
delivers the larger quantity of water.

Fig. 6. In the construction of open valleys care

should be taken to extend the copper flashing far
enough up under the shingles so that the copper will
be covered by at least two thicknesses of shingles as
shown in Fig. 6. A larger detail of the cleats and the
manner of fastening is shown on page 51 of the text.

Fig. 7. The return on the upper edge of the

flashing and the "fold-over" are shown in Fig. 7.
A slight opening shows between the layers of metal.
This has been done in order to clearly illustrate the
method employed. In practice the metal should be
pressed together in both these places. This insures
an even ridge for the shingles to rest upon. A larger
detail of the method of cleating is shown in the text
on page 51. The advantage of this type of valley is
that the "fold-over" provides a means of expansion
for the copper.

Figs. 8 and 10. Flashings for a wood window

frame in a stud wall are shown in Figs. 8 and 10.
Fig. 8 shows two methods of flashing the window
head. The left-hand drawing shows the edge of the
flashing covered by the molding. At the right it is
shown fastened by nailing along the exposed edge.
Both methods are good. The flashing is placed after
the frame and outside trim has been set but before
hingling. It should be carried up on the wall at
least 3 inches (but must always be covered by at
least two thicknesses of shingles). A better fastening
for the exposed edge shown in the ri^ht-hand drawing
is by means of the edge-strip illustrated in Fig. 12
and on page 54 of the text- This is expecially recom-
mended uhi-n the trim has considerable projection
or when an uneven row of nails on the upper edge of

the trim would be unsightly.

Figure 10 shows th( imihod employed for flashing
the sill. 1 he flushing is set after the sheathing is in
p« n but before the window frame is placed. It

should extend 4 inches out on the roof and as far as
po iblc up under the sill. After the window frame
is set it should be secured to the sill with copper nails.
1 he edec should be turned back on itself ]/i inch and
after the shingles are placed turned down on the
shingh

Another method of securing this flashing is by
nailing along the upper edge under the shingles and

turning the lower edge at a sharp angle so that it
presses tightly against the top fillet of the molding.

Fig. 9. Certain fundamental precautions to

be observed in the construction of all valley flashings
are enumerated in Fig. 9. A large detail showing the
manner of forming cleats and securing them to the
copper sheets and to the roof is more fully illustrated
in the text on page 51.

Fig. 11. When a wood window or door sill is set

on a stone or concrete sill an open joint between the
two sills, where rain or wind can enter, must be
avoided. To prevent this a water-bar of 20-ounce
copper 2 inches or more wide is set in the wood sill.
A reglet is cut in the stone sill and filled just before
the wood sill is placed with pitch or other water-
proofing compound. The wood sill with the pro-
jecting water-bar is set in this compound.

Fig. 12. At the base of a frame building where

a projection (sometimes called a water-table) is
formed the upper surface is protected by copper
flashing in the manner shown in Fig. 12. A brass
edge-strip is first secured to the wood by brass screws
or nails and the copper flashing hooked over this strip
and extended up on the sheathing and secured by
copper nails not more than 8 inches apart along the
upper edge. A cheaper and less efficient method of
fastening is by nailing along the lower edge only. In
either case a drip should be provided to prevent rotting
of the wood work. Four inches up on the sheathing
are sufficient when the shingles are doubled at the
bottom of the wall but more is needed if shingles are
but single course and the copper must be covered by
the second course. The manner of applying the
brass edge-strip is described on page 54 of the text.

Fig. 13. When a shingle roof abuts a shingle

wall the copper flashing is arranged as shown in
Fig. 13. This flashing should be extended 4 inches
out on the roof over the shingles and up on the wall
sheathing at least 4 inches and secured along the upper
edge by copper nails. Note the 3^-inch "fold-over" of

the lower edge.

Fig. 14. When a felt or other laminated roof

abuts a wall covered with stucco the detail shown in
Fig. 14 is used. An extra board may be placed on
the sheathing as shown to bring the flashing out to
the face stucco. The lath should lap the cap flashing
at least 1 inch. The base flashing should extend out
on top of the roofing material at least 4 inches and
be nailed to the roofing boards. Two additional
layers of the roofing material should then be placed
on top of the bas«. flashing after the flashing has been
well swabbed with pitch. Base flashing should ex-
tend up far enough to allow a 4-inch lap of the cap
flashing The lower edge of the cap flashing should
be turned back on itself ]/ 2 inch.

WHEN POOr SLOPES DO NOT
3AM C PITCH OR WHEA/ ONE ROOF D/S
CMft?£5 MOPE WATER TMN THE OTHER
THE CR/MP /S PLACED JN THE VALLEY

TO 3PEAK THE FORCE Of THE DESCEND-
IN<S WATER AND PREVENT THE WATER
rRO/f ONE ROOF OE/N& fORCED ABOVE
THE TOP OE THE ELASHINO OA/ THE OPP-
OSITE SLOPE

I i

i •

^>,

\CRIMP U5tD IN OPEN VALLEYS /P\

SH/NflES OR J/0/NG-+
COPPER ELASHlNf HEl D

6Y COPPER NA/U

'J s

OPEN VALLEY EM 5/1 /A/0
SECURED BY CLEATS '

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STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig. 15- When a doorway or window built of

wood is placed against a brick wall, as indicated
in Fig. IS, the junction of the two materials should
be carefully flashed with copper. In this type of
construction the brick work is built up as the building
progresses but the molded wood doorway is not placed
until sometime later. This necessitates a two piece

flashing (cap and base.)- m

Each sheet of the cap flashing is built in as the brick
work progresses and each sheet laps outside the next
lower sheet at least 2 inches. The cap flashing may
be cut from one or more sheets, instead of several
sheets as shown, by notching the upper edges and
turning them into the brick work. In either case the
lower edge of the flashing should be turned back on
itself Yi inch for stiffness. After the wood work is in
place and the base flashing set the cap flashing is
turned down over the base flashing far enough to
lap the base flashing at least 4 inches. For a detail
of Section A-A and description of the method of
placing this flashing see Fig. 17.

Fig. 16. A wood doorway against a stucco wall

is shown in Fig. 16. In this case the wood trim of the
doorway will be in place before the stucco or shingles
are applied. The cap and base flashings may, there-
fore, be made in one piece or two, as desired. If the
doorway has a segmental head as shown on the left-
hand side two-piece construction only may be used,
owing to the curved-shape doorway. 1 he horizontal
length of the sheet on the wall is also determined by
the radius of the doorway head. Each sheet should
lap outside the next lower at least 2 inches. In the
doorway shown on the right-hand side of the illus-
tration the flashing may be made in one sheet, if
desired. For a detailed description of Section B-B
and C-C and the method of setting see description
of Figs. 18 and 19.

Fig. 17. A Section A-A through the cornice

in Fig. 15 is shown in Fig. 17. The cap flashing is
built in as the brick work progresses, the upper edge
being first turned up Y2 inch (although some prefer to
turn it completely back on itself). The lower edge
is also turned back on itself and later turned down
over the base flashing. After the wood work is
placed the base flashing is hooked over a brass edge-
strip (described in detail in the text on page 54) and
turned up on the wall. The cap flashing is then
turned down over the base flashing so that it will lap
the base flashing at least 4 inches.

Fig. 18. When the head of the doorway is

Curved as indicated by the left-hand side of Fig. 16,

it is necessary to make the flashing in two pieces as
shown in Fig. 18, instead of in one piece as shown in
Fig. 19. The lap of the two pieces should be at least
Y 2 inch well-soldered. The method of applying the
brass edge-strip is more fully described in the text
on page 54,

Fig. 19. If a wood doorway is set against a wood

wall covered with stucco as shown in Fig. 16, the
moldings will be in place before the stucco is applied.
The flashing may be made in one piece instead of
two as show^n in Fig. 17 (except when the head is
segmental). The flashing is first hooked over a
brass edge-strip nailed or screwed to the face of the
top molding (described in the text on page 54) and
extended up on wall at least 4 inches. The lath is
brought down outside and a little in front of the
flashing but nailed above it and the stucco then
applied. If the flashing is made in several sheets as
shown in Fig. 16, each sheet of flashing should lap
outside the next lower sheet at least 2 inches. The
flashing may be made in one or more long sheets if
desired, except where the doorway has a segmental
head.

Fig. 20. If a wood or composition column-cap

is exposed to the action of the elements, good practice
demands that the upper surfaces of the exposed pro-
jecting parts of the cap be protected from dampness.
To accomplish this the top is covered with copper in
the manner shown in Fig. 20. The portion over the
dowel is made separately and soldered to the flat
portion and the edges of the flat part turned down
over the edge of the column cap about ^ inch and
secured by copper nails as shown at "B."

Fig. 21. At the place where the base of a wood

column rests on or penetrates a composition roof
laid over w r ood, provision should be made to make the
junction water-tight by means of a copper flashing
cap as shown in Fig. 21. This is made up in one unit
by soldering the various parts together and placing
it either over the dowel on top of the column below
or over a projection raised on the deck for this pur-
pose. The copper should extend out on the roof at
least 6 inches and be set in the layers of felt in the
usual manner for composition roofs as shown and
described elsewhere. The upper column is then
placed over this cap and rests on top of it. 1 he sides
of the column base should be made to clear the com-
position roof from Yi to 1 inch to prevent rot. The
above method with slight variations is used for round
wood columns as well as square columns.

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STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig. 22. Where the design calls for a recessed

dormer window the method of flashing shown in

Fig. 22 and detailed at the left in Sections A-A, B-B,
and C-C is recommended. Attention is called to the
various seams which, as well as the copper roofing,
are exaggerated in order to show clearly the methods
employed. The sheathing of the sides of the recess
and the hips of the dormer roofing are formed with
standing locked seams. All the other seams are flat
locked. The method of forming the seams is ex-
plained in detail in the text on page 49. The apron
extending down the slope of the roof in front of the
recess deck should lap the shingles at least 4 inches
and the lower edge of the copper should be turned
back on itself about J/£ inch for stiffness^ The upper
part of the deck roofing should be carried up under
the wood window sill as far as possible and nailed.
The copper at the sides of the recess should lap the
main roof under the shingles at least 2 inches and be
secured by copper cleats to the wood sheathing. The
shingles may extend out over this if the design requires
it, but care must be taken in nailing the shingles not
to puncture the copper. The roof copper of the
dormer window is hooked over a brass edge-strip in
the manner described on page 54 of the text, and
extended up the slopes of the roof with flat seams
between the sheets secured by copper cleats nailed
to the sheathing, and with standing seams at the hips
and ridges. If the roof and deck are quite flat the
standing seams must be soldered. The roofing should
extend far enough up on the main roo' so that the
roof shingles will cover the copper at least 4 inches.
In any event it is necessary that the copperbe covered by
at least two thicknesses of shingles with broken joints.

Fig. 23. One method of forming a hanging

gutter and securing it to a w r ood roof covered with
shingles is shown in Fig. 23. The upper or roof edge
is turned back on itself Yi inch to engage copper cleats
about 12 inches apart, which are nailed to the roof
by copper nails. The outer edge or roll of the gutter
contains a bronze or brass bar. To this are riveted
long copper straps of re-inch metal about 30 inches
apart extending up on the roof 3 or 4 inches above the
upper edge of the copper gutter. Each strap is se-
cured to the roof by 2 brass wood screws or nails.
While it is a desirable feature for this form of gutter
to be supported from below as well as from above, and
a copper drip provided as shown, these features are
not vital and may be omitted. Gutter-lining is
sometimes used in long runs, but it is not shown in
this detail as it does not affect the support of the gutter.

Fig. 24. Another type of gutter called a "Pole

Gutter," is shown in Fig. 24. This is known in
some localities as a "Gutter-Strip. " In this instance
the gutter is placed on the roof instead of suspended
from it. The upper edge of the flashing is turned
back on itself and secured to the roof sheathing by
copper cleats and nails. The lower edge is also turned
back on itself Y> inch for stiffness. The copper should
cover the shingles at least 4 inches. The shingles
along the upper edge should lap the copper at least
4 inches and the copper should be covered by at least
two thicknesses of shingle. The flashing is secured
at the lower end by cleats fastened to the pole. For
clearness these have not been shown in the detail of
the seam.

STANDARD DETAI LS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig. 25. The method of flashing a copper venti-
lator set on a sloping shingle roof is shown in Fig. 25.
The ventilator is fastened to the flashing by a soldered
lap seam either before or after the ventilator is in
place. When placed on the roof the flashing should
lap the shingles on the sides and bottom from 6 to 8
inches and be formed over the edges. At the top
the shingles lap over the copper, which should be
carried up on the roof far enough so that the upper
part of the sheet is covered by at least two thicknesses
of shingles. The flashing is fastened to the roof
sheathing by long brass woodscrews. To avoid
breaking the shingles the holes for these screws should
be drilled, not punched, and the screws set through
slotted brass washers. Only 4 screws are shown in the
illustration but if the ventilator is a large one more
will be required. They should be spaced not over
12 inches apart. When completed the screw heads
and washers should be well covered with solder. The
lower edge of the flashing should be turned back on
itself Yl inch for stiffness. Attention is called to the
matter of "guying" as described in Fig. 26.

Another method of fastening this flashing is to
place the sheet on a soft pine block and drive holes
in it with a blunt nail-set — in effect a counter-sinking.
After the sheet is in place on the roof ordinary wood
screws are set through these holes and covered with
solder.

Fig. 26. If the ventilator is placed on the ridge

of the roof instead of the slope the detail shown in
Fig. 26 is used. The method is similar to that de-
scribed in Fig. 25 except that the flashing is entirely
outside the shingles. In both cases (Figs. 25 and 26)
in order to avoid strain on the flashing connections,
if the ventilator be a tall one, it should be steadied
by rods or wires secured to the roof. These rods or
wires are fastened to the ventilator as near the top as
possible by a brass collar and to the roof by brass
screw-eyes or similar devices. The flashings for
these consist of pieces of copper extending out on
the roof about 8 inches on each side, and long enough
to extend from the butts of the shingles next below
up and under the shingles above as far as possible.
1 he sheet is soldered to the shank of the fastening, or
a thimble is fitted around the shank, soldered to the
sheet, and filled with waterproofing-compound.
These screw-eyes can also be flashed as described in
Fig. 28.

Fig. 27. Vent- or other pipes through a roof

are flashed as shown in Fig. 27. The lower edge of
the flashing laps the shingles not less than 4 inches,
but the sides and top are placed under the shingles
md covered about 6 inches. If the flashing is over
12 inches wide the lower edge should be turned back
on itself l /2 inch. This stiffens the metal and pre-
vents lifting by the wind. The flashing around the
pipe should be flared out at the bottom and soldered
to the roof sheet. It should extend up to the top of
the pipe and be secured either by an iron cap screwed
in place, as shown in Fig. 29, or by a copper cap, as
shown in Fig. 30. (See description of these figures.)
The flashing should be carried up above the top of
the shingle course on which it rests and held in place
by nailing along the upper edge.

Fig. 28. Many instances occur where the roof

is pierced by steel members such as struts to hold
a platform or similar structure. Great care should
be used at these places not only to make the point of
penetration water- and damp-proof but also to allow
room for expansion and contraction of the steel.
For this purpose the detail shown in Fig. 28 is recom-
mended. The composition roof is laid in the usual
way close to the steel and a copper collar is formed
around the steel extending out on the roof 2 inches.
The ends of the collar are lapped and soldered and the
pan thus formed is filled with pitch or other water-
proofing-compound. The steel should be heated
with a torch to secure proper adhesion, expecially in
cold weather. The part extending out on the roof
is covered with two layers of fabric, the copper having
been first carefully swabbed with pitch. Where a
tile roof is used the flashing is laid on top of the
regular roof waterproofing. When it is necessary to
make the vertical and horizontal parts of this pan in
two pieces the joint between the parts should be a
soldered lap seam.

Fig. 29. There are two methods of terminat-
ing the flashing when a vent-pipe comes through
the roof. One method is shown in Fig. 29. The
horizontal flashing is turned out over the roofing 6
inches. A copper sheet is placed around the pipe
and soldered to the horizontal sheet. Some roofers
coat the outside of the pipe with white lead or asphal-
tum before placing the flashing. The roof flashing
is covered by two layers of roofing and the flashing on
the pipe is held in place by a cap screwed on the top
of the pipe and enclosing the flashing. Before placing
this cap the threads are coated with white lead.
This method is used only with screw-pipe.

There are on the market several practicable and
satisfactory types of patented vent and pipe flashings
for various kinds and conditions of roofing.

Fig. 30. Where cast-iron pipe is used the flash-
ing is shown in Fig. 30. It may also be used for
threaded pipe. The roof and vertical portions are
constructed as described in Fig. 29 but the top of
the vertical portion is held in place by a copper cap
forced down over the pipe and the flashing. 1 his cap
should be 6 inches high and should project into the
pipe at least 2 inches. The vertical flashing should
be carried high enough so that the cap will lap at
least 4 inches.

Fig. 31. Where a flag pole extends through the

roof the flashing is shown in Fig. 31. The flashing
is turned out on the roofing 6 inches. The copper
collar around the pole is lapped over the base flashing
and well-soldered. The collar and the flashing must
be kept away from the pole to allow for vibration.
A flared hood is then placed around the pole extend-
ing down so that it will lap the collar at least 3 inches.
1 his hood is held by a brass band 1 inch wide set in
white lead and bolted. The lower edge is turned
back on itself }/£ inch for stiffness. Very tall poles
are usually braced by rods secured to a collar several
feet up on the pole. The method of waterproofing
the rods at the roof is similar to that described in
Figs. 26 and 28.

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STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig. 32. When forming a "closed" valley with

small sheets of copper the method shown in Fig. 32
is used. The size of sheet used is determined by the
length of shingle and the pitch of the adjoining slopes.
Each sheet should extend at least 2 inches above
the top of the shingle on which it rests so that it
may be nailed along the upper edge to the roof
sheathing and not through the shingles. Each sheet
should be long enough so that it will lap the one below
at least 3 inches, but always set back of the butt of
the shingle above so that the copper will not be
visible. Each sheet will then be separated from the
sheet below by a course of shingles. (See Section
A-A.) The sheets must be wide enough so that the
vertical distance from the bottom of the valley to
a line connecting the top of the sheets (see Section
B-B) will be at least 4 inches. The sheets should be
nailed only at the upper edge with copper nails, and
laid at the same time as the shingles. Some roofers
prefer to bend these sheets with a center "crimp" (see
D-D, Fig. 33) thereby stiffening the sheet, forming a
straight line to which to set the shingles, and prevent-
ing the possibility of water from one slope being forced
above the flashing on the opposite slope when the
drainage from one slope is greater.

Fig- 33. Another method of forming a "closed"

valley is shown in Fig. 33. In this method the copper
is laid in long narrow sheets directly on the paper or
felt covering the roof sheathing and before any of
the shingles are laid, except the first course at the
eaves. The copper sheets may be of any length
desired but the upper sheet should lap the one be-
low at least 4 inches, unless the lap is soldered, in
which case the lap may be reduced to 1 inch. Each
sheet should be nailed about every 18 inches along
the outer edge of its long dimension, and be wide
enough so that the vertical distance from the bottom
of the valley to a line connecting the tops of the
sheets (see Section D-D) is at least 4 inches. In
laying the shingles on top of this flashing great
care must be taken not to drive any nails through the
flashing. The "crimp," as shown in Section D-D,
Fig, 33, has its uses as explained in Fig. 32, but the
flashing may also be made in the shape shown in

Section B-B, Fig. 32.

Fig- 34. A factory saw-tooth roof presents mam

problems. In order to obtain maximum light and
at the same time avoid direct sunlight, the roof
windows are placed facing in a northerly direction.
This means that the gutter is always in shadow,
which, in northerly localities, permits the snow to
gather and remain in the gutter for long periods. _ The
"line of minimum shadow" shown in Fig. 34, indicates
the point down to which the sun shines on the slope
of the roof. The area to the left of this line receives
more or less sunlight according to the hour, and the
area to the right receives none. This line as well as
the angle of the face containing the windows varies
with the design of the building and the latitude in
which it is built. In every case the copper flashing

should be carried up the slope at least 1 foot beyond
the minimum-shadow line and be fastened to the roof
by cleats and also be carried up under the sills of the
windows. All sharp angles should be avoided in the
construction of gutters, and in those over 24 inches
wide a soldered lock seam should be formed length-
wise down the center to allow for expansion and
contraction.

Gutters of this type are usually subject to hard
treatment as it is often necessary to shovel out the
accumulated snow. When this is done the metal is
often broken by the shovels or punctured by the
heels of the workmen. To overcome this different
schemes have been tried. Steam coils for melting
the snow are probably the best. In every case
there should be provision for quick drainage. Small
electric heaters are sometimes placed at outlets.
Sometimes a steel angle, about 5 inches by 5 inches,
with edge notches, is placed inverted in the middle
of the gutter. The water from melting snow flows
through the small notches to the outlets, and the
snow is kept thoroughly drained.

If the gutters are to be cleared of snow by work-
men with shovels, snow boards are absolutely neces-
sary.

Two methods of flashing the ridge of a saw-tooth
roof are shown in Fig, 34. The one at the left is for
a shingle roof above a copper-sheathed wall and the
one at the right for a shingle roof over a shingle wall.
In each case the edge is turned back Yi inch to provide
stiffness.

Fig. 35. In building a gutter for a saw-tooth

roof it is very important to avoid all sharp bends of
the copper, to avoid sudden drops, provide an easy
flow for the roof water, and to carry the flashing high
enough to avoid chance of overflowing behind it.
Fig. 35 shows a gutter where many of these important
features have been omitted. The short distance that
the flashing has been carried up on the roof and walls
is a constant source of leakage in case of the tempor-
ary stoppage of the gutter outlet. The sharp angles
at the bottom of the gutter will be a likely place for
a crack in the copper to occur through expansion, and
the vertical drop of several inches from the sloping
roof to the bottom of the gutter will cause wear by
erosion. All these points may be avoided by proper
design.

Fig. 36. Another correct method of forming a
gutter for a saw-tooth roof is shown in Fig. 36.

Note that the course of the drainage water is changed
gradually instead of abruptly as in Fig. 35, that all
sharp angles in the copper are avoided and that the
flashing is carried up on the walls and roof high
enough to avoid any chance of an overflow caused
by stoppage of the leader outlets of the gutter.

Scuppers should be provided at the ends of gutters
of this type. They provide an overflow in case the
leaders become obstructed, and give timely notice of a
stoppage before any material damage has been done.

1N€

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STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig. 37. When a roof surface is covered with

gravel or slag a device called a "gravel-stop," shown
in Fig. 37, is used. It is made of copper and applied
along the edge of the roof and secured at the side
and top. A brass edge-strip (described in detail on
page 54) is fastened to the edge of the roof. The
copper is hooked over this strip and brought up over
the edge and out on the roof with a "crimp" above
the roof surface to keep the gravel in place. The
copper should extend out on the roof on top of the
felt 4 inches and be nailed through the felt to the roof
sheathing with copper nails and then covered with
two layers of felt.

The metal may also be laid in between the layers
of felt instead of on top, or it may be laid on top of
the felt and covered with two additional layers of
felt extending 6 inches out on the roof as described
in Fig. 40. Many roofers prefer this method as it
prevents interruption of the roofing work.

The copper should never be laid directly on

the ROOF boards. The felt will pull away from the
copper and an open joint result at the junction of the
copper and the felt.

Fig. 38. When a flat deck covered by a copper

roof is built over a sloping shingle roof the edge ol
the deck is flashed in the manner shown in Fig. 38.
The flashing should lap the shingles 4 inches and be
joined to the copper roofing by a flat lock seam with
the seam turned in the direction of the flow.

Fig. 39. A gravel-stop flashing at the edge of a

roof laid on a concerte slab is secured as shown in
Fig. 39. Holes are drilled into the slab about 12
inches apart and \% inch in diameter and a small
cylinder of sheet lead slightly shorter than the depth
of the hole is inserted. A brass wood-screw with a
slotted washer is then used to fasten the copper to
the concrete, as shown in detail in Fig- 63.

Fig. 40. A flat deck covered with felt-and-
gravel roofing above a sloping shingle roof, is
flashed as shown in Fig. 40. The lower edge of the
copper is turned back on itself x /i * nc h for stiffness,
and should lap the shingles at least 4 inches. It is
brought up on to the main roof and, after forming a
crimp to retain the gravel, is extended out on the
roofing 4 inches and nailed about 8 inches apart near
the inside edge, through the felt into the roof sheath-
ing. The joint between metal and felt is made tight
as described in Fig. 37.

If the vertical distance from the shingles to the top
of the crimp is more than 8 inches it may be advisable
to make the flashing in 2 pieces joined by a flat lock
seam secured by cleats to the vertical surface of the
roof boards.

Fig. 41. When clay roof tiles are used on a sloping

concrete slab roof and project but little beyond the
eaves, the use of flashing is necessary. It is placed
in the manner shown in Fig. 41. Sometimes this
flashing takes a molded form and is treated in the
design as a cornice, but the method of application is
still essentially that shown in Fig. 41, except that the
copper may be formed in two parts with a horizontal

lock seam joining the parts at or near the first hori-
zontal sleeper. The first step in placing the flashing
shown in Fig. 41 is to secure to the concrete a brass
edge-strip. This is done by drilling holes in the con-
crete about 12 inches apart and fastening the brass
edge-strip as described in Figs. 39 and 63. The holes
in the concrete should never be filled with wood plugs
as the wood will dry out and shrink and the edge-strip
will work loose. The flashing is brought up on the
wall and turned back over the first sleeper and up on
the roof far enough so that no water-pocket will be
formed and the high end of the flashing will be about 2
inches vertically above the top of the first sleeper. No
nailing is necessary for this part of the flashing as the
weight of the tiles will hold it in place, but copper nails
should be used to secure the tiles to the sleepers.

Fig. 42 shows three types of Hip or Ridge Flash-
ings. It should be noted that the methods are to
a large extent interchangeable. For instance, the
brass straps shown in the upper right-hand corner can
be used with either of the other two methods.

When a low ridge-flashing without any projecting
roll is desired it can be made as shown in the upper
left-hand corner. The ridge boards covering the
shingles are secured to the roof by nailing to blocks
placed at intervals on the sheathing (the shingles be-
ing cut to fit around), or on a continuous block formed
of J/g-inch strips. After the shingles are laid the
ridge boards are placed over them as shown, and are
covered by the flashing piece. This is secured to
the edge of the ridge boards by nails, as shown, or
by brass wood screws. The flashing is given a slight
projection (about 1 inch), which is bent down to the
shingles after the nailing is done. This sheds the
water and covers the nail holes.

The method shown in the upper right-hand corner
requires a specially shaped ridge-piece to take the
flashing roll. The roll is secured by screws in the
sides as shown, and the apron, if over 4 inches wide,
should be stiffened against wind action by brass
clamps or straps, spaced about 30 inches apart.
These straps are secured by screws through counter-
sunk holes as indicated, or are sometimes soldered
to the apron. If placed under the apron they are
riveted to it before the piece is set in position.

The method shown in the lower left-hand corner
requires no special shaping of the ridge-board, and
is an excellent way of securing a large ridge roll.
The board keeps the metal in place and it is set so
that it can be fastened by screws in the ridge-board,
making it unnecessary to drill the shingles or slates.

Perhaps the simplest method is to use stock ridge
and hip rolls. These are made of hard (cornice
temper) copper in sizes up to 3-inch roll and 3J/2-
inch apron. They are fastened by brass screws set
through washers into holes drilled in the shingles or
located above the upper edge. They require no
ridge-board. When these are used the screw-heads
should be soldered. On hips small pieces of copper
should be built in with the shingle courses to prevent
water working under the edge of the apron and thence
under the shingles.

Elaborate ornamented or molded rolls require
special bracings and fastenings, and each case should
be specially considered.

GRAVEL STOP HOOKED OV£R N*IL/N<T STR/P
A ND LAPPED AT LEAST *?/NCrt£5 ON ROO^ —

COMPO POOr-

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strip and carried

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SECURED TO WALL

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STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig, 43. Two ways of making a water-tight con-
nection between the roofing and an inside iron pipe
or leader are shown in Fig. 43. The one on the right
shows a method of connecting to a felt-and-gravel or
other composition roof, while the one on the left shows
the method of connecting to a sheet-copper roof.
After the copper drain pan is in place a lead tube
(gooseneck) connection to the C. I. pipe is made.
This tube is flanged out an inch at its upper end and
is soldered to the pan; the lower end is fitted with a
brass ferrule which is set into the C. I. pipe and
caulked. For the composition roof the copper should
extend out on the roof 4 inches beyond the gravel-stop
and be incorporated with the roofing. For sheet-
copper roofing the connection between the roofing
and flashing is made by a lock seam secured to the roof
by cleats. This seam is turned in the direction of
the flow and soldered. Although the drawing shows
one sheet of copper from the gravel-stop and seam to
the bottom of the tube, the pan is built up of several
pieces. The number and arrangement will vary with
each design. To avoid confusion no attempt has been
made in the drawing to show the necessary seams.

Fig. 44. For large roof areas on concrete build-
ings provision must be made for the expansion and con-
traction of the reinforced-concrete roof slab. This is
done by allowing open joints through the concrete roof
slab at certain places. These joints must, of course, be
recognized in the roofing and an arrangement made so
that the roofing will ride with the concrete roof slab
and not be broken by the action caused by tempera-
ture changes. The condition presented in Fig. 44
shows a tile roof laid on a cement mortar bed over a
concrete roof slab with fabric waterproofing between
the mortar bed and the concrete slab. The expansion
provision for the roofing is made by a band of No. 14
iron painted on both sides with asphaltum and en-
cased in 16-ounce copper. This band is made in
lengths convenient for handling; the width should be
at least S]4 inches more than the width of the expan-
sion joint in the concrete at the lowest temperature.
At each end of the iron band and between the end of
the band and the copper a space "B" must be left for
expansion. This space should be equal to one-half
the width of the expansion joint in the concrete at the
lowest temperature plus l /i inch. The width of the
copper, therefore, both on the tile and on the water-
proofing fabric will be equal to twice the distance "B"
plus S]/2 inches. The height is determined by the
space required by the mortar bed plus the thickness of

the tile. The entire flashing is laid while the fabric
waterproofing is being placed or directly afterward,
depending on whether it is desired to incorporate the
lower flanges of the flashing in the layers of the fabric
or place the flashing afterward and cover the flanges
with two additional layers of fabric extending out 6
inches on the roof. After the fabric is laid, the mortar
bed and the tile are laid. Just before the tile is laid
the space between the copper and the cement is filled
with mastic-compound and the tile squeezed under the
copper and into this compound.

This expansion joint is often made without the iron
strip. A copper sheet is shaped roughly as shown in
the drawing and is filled with a high-melting-point
asphalt. The tile is then set in place. The movement
due to temperature changes causes distortion in the
flashing strip. The asphalt adjusts itself to take care
of this distortion. This method is somewhat cheaper
than the one shown but has not the rigidity necessary
to resist external wear.

Fig. 45. Another method of connecting a roof

surface to an inside leader is shown in Fig. 45.

In this drawing the right-hand side shows a composi-
tion roof on a wood base and the left-hand side shows
a tile roof on a concrete base. The copper tube,
before being placed in the cast-iron pipe, is coated
heavily with asphaltum. The tube should be se-
cured to the flashing flange on the roof by a soldered
lap seam. The lead gooseneck, described in Fig. 43, is
also used successfully with this type of outlet. The
flashing flange should extend out on the roof a distance
at least equal to the diameter of the tube and be in-
corporated with the roofing. Near the outside edge
of the flashing flange a crimp is soldered. In the
right-hand example it should be high enough to retain
the gravel or slag, and on the left-hand side it should
be high enough to finish flush with the top of the tile.
The junction of the copper tube and the iron pipe
should be carefully caulked, and the opening at the
top of the copper tube at the roof provided with a
strainer of basket or other design. The strainer has
been omitted in the drawing to avoid confusion.

Fig. 46. This drawing is shown primarily to in-
dicate the general type of copper flashing used in

this sort of drain connection. The details vary with
the design of the connection and the conditions under
which it is used. This connection is a patented article
and the manufacturers should be consulted for details
and the best type to use under a given condition.

LOCK SEAM-SOLDERED

CLEA?

HAILING STRIP

SHEET COPPER PQOF/NG

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concrete e/jll

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3F T7/E EtANUmCTUAER

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: 'TILE ROOT LAID ON CONCRETE

rLASHING TOR A "HOLT* LCADTR CONNTCT/ON

STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig. 47. When a clay tile roof is surmounted

by a flat deck covered by copper roofing there are
two ways of flashing the junction, both of which are
shown in Fig. 47. The method shown on the left
is used when the tile finishes below the copper roof
level and the roofing laps over the edge of the tile.
A clay-tile deck mold is secured to the roof sheathing
by copper nails just above a special piece which is
called a "top-fixture. " The flashing is turned down
over the deck-mold far enough to lap 4 inches, the
lower edge having been turned back on itself l /2 inch
for stiffness. The upper or roof edge of the flashing
is connected to the roofing copper by a soldered lock
seam securely held to the roof sheathing by copper

cleats.

The method indicated on the right of Fig. 47
shows the way the flashing is to be placed when the
tile ends above the roof instead of below. The flash-
ing is carried up at an angle on a cant strip over a
ridge-board and down and out on the tile, lapping
about 4 inches. The clay ridge-roll is then placed
over the copper flashing, the weight of the roll holding
it in place. The flashing is also secured to the copper
roofing of the main deck roof by soldered lock seams.
In laying both types of flashing care should be taken
to avoid sharp angles. The ends of the flashing
sheets horizontally should be joined by a soldered
lap seam or by a 2-inch lap if not soldered.

Fig. 48. When a clay tile roof abuts a brick wall

at the top of the tile roof the junction is flashed as
indicated in Fig. 48. Each end of the cap flashing is
turned back on itself, the built-in end to act as a
dam, and the lower end for stiffness. The flashing is
built into the brick work as the wall progresses. The
cap flashing should lap the base flashing 4 inches.
The base flashing should extend out on the roof tile
as far as the edge of the clay tile "top fixture," and
before being placed the lower edge should be turned
back on itself 1 4 inch for stiffness. After placing the
base flashing in position the upper edge should be
secured to the brick work by copper nails driven into
the joints of the brick work. To complete the job
the cap flashing is then turned down over the base
flashing in the usual way. The sheets forming both
base flashing and cap flashing should lap horizontally
at least 2 inches if the lap is not to be soldered, but if
the laps are to be soldered this distance may be
reduced to l /l inch.

Fig. 49. When a clay tile roof abuts a brick

wall at the sides of the roof the method of flashing

to be used is indicated in Fig. 49. The base flashing
should extend out on the roof just far enough to avoid
puncture by the nails used in securing the clay tile
to the roof, and then be turned up at a right angle to
the roof }/± inch and also turned up against the brick
wall. The flashing should always be carried up high
enough on the brick wall so that the cap flashing
when in place will lap the base flashing at least 4
inches. 1 he cap flashing should be laid in the brick
joints as the wall is built and stepped as required by
the slope of the roof. Before being placed in position
each end of the cap flashing should be turned back
on itself Y2 inch. Each sheet of the cap flashing
should lap outside the next lower sheet at least 2
inches, but if the lap is to be soldered this distance
may be reduced to } ? inch.

Fig. 50. The process of flashing a roof covered

with concrete tile is explained in Figs. 50, 51 and
52. Fig. 50 shows the method to be used when the
tile work is penetrated by a vent-pipe. The import-
ant points to be considered are: First, the careful
bedding in cement mortar of the particular tile or
tiles which the pipe penetrates. This is necessary
because the mechanical bond between this tile and
its neighbors will probably be broken by the pipe.
Second, the copper flashing should be carried down
to and over the edge of the tile just below the pipe
and also up under the next tile above the pipe, as
far as the wood batten, to which it should be secured
by copper nails. Third, the flashing should be wide
enough so that the edges will terminate in a depression
of the tile and be turned down into it, as shown in
Fig. 51, and not terminate on top of a projection.
The flashing around the pipe is done as described in
detail in Figs. 29 or 30.

Fig. 51. This drawing indicates the method

to be used for flashing a concrete-tile roof ending
against a brick wall or chimney, the upper drawing
showing the method when the side of the tile roof
adjoins the brick work, and the lower showing the
method used when the brick work is at the top of the
tile roof. For clearness the cap flashing is shown with
a straight lower edge, but it should, of course, be
turned on itself Y2 inch for stiffness. It is built in
and stepped in the usual manner for cap flashing
in brick work. Attention is called to the method
of terminating the base flashing which, in the case
of the side wall, should be carried out to a depression
in the tile and turned down into it. In the case
of the front wall the flashing should be carried down
on the roof at least 4 inches and over the edge of the
tile next to the brick work. Cap flashings should lap
the base flashings at least 4 inches, and be stepped as
required by the slope of the roof, and also lap adjoining
sheets 2 inches.

Fig. 52 shows a dormer window or other verti-
cal structure on a concrete-tile roof and the method
of flashing. The upper part of the drawing shows the
flashing against the side wall, and the lower part the
flashing against the front wall. In side wall construc-
tion the flashing is carried out on the roof and turned
up against a cleat supporting the concrete tile and
also up on the vertical wall as far as necessary, but
never less than 4 inches, and is nailed to the sheathing
about every 8 inches. The tile is kept a little distance
away from the wall so that the flashing forms a
small gutter. Provision must be made at the low
point for connecting this flashing with the main
gutter by continuing it under the tile to the eaves,
or else it must be run out on top of the tile. Against
the front wall the flashing is placed against the
sheathing and carried up at least 4 inches. When
a window occurs in the wall the flashing should be
carried well up under the window sill as explained
in Fig. 10. The upper edge of the flashing is nailed
to the sheathing by copper nails about 8 inches part.
The lower edge extends out on the tile from four to
six inches, according to the slope of the roof and should
be turned back on itself Y2 > n ch for stiffness.

Attention is directed to the method of bedding
the tile in cement mortar. This is necessary wherever
the tile is cut or wherever water is liable to drive in
under the flashing.

LOCK SEAM AMD CL EAT-

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COPPER rLASH/tf&

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TWO WAYS OF FLASHING THL FDGF OF A FLAT DFCK AdOVF A SLOPING T/LF POOF

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STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig, 53. A copper gutter in a stone cornice

and a connection to an inside Leader is shown here.
The flashing is in one piece and is made wide enough
to connect with the gutter-lining by a soldered lock
seam. The exact location of this seam depends upon
the design. After the masonry is complete the
gutter, if very long, is graded with a concrete fill and
the copper lining placed. The copper is caulked
into reglets in the cornice and the wall. (For a com-
plete description of reglet construction see Fig. 55.)
It is a wise precaution to make the top of the flashing
at least 3 inches above the edge of the cornice so, if
the outlet becomes clogged, the water will not rise
above the flashing but will flow over the cornice edge.

The drawing shows a special cast brass drain
recommended for work of this character. It is manu-
factured by the Josam Manufacturing Co. The
drain is connected to the house drainage-system by
cast or wrought-iron pipe with all angles turned with
fittings of an easy curve. The connection to the
gutter-lining is made by a special double flange on
the drain. Where it is impracticable to run the drain-
pipe as close to the gutter as shown, a long lead goose-
neck is used, connected to the iron pipe by a brass
ferrule or caulking ring. The construction in either
case allows for settlement in the building. This
detail may also be used for reinforced-concrete
cornices.

Fig. 54. This illustration shows another method

of forming a gutter-lining in a stone cornice. In

this case the flashing is in two pieces, cap and base.
The cap flashing is caulked into a reglet, and, with
the edge turned back on itself x /i inch for stiffness,
is turned down over the base flashing to lap at least
4 inches. The outside edge of the base flashing is
secured in a reglet near the outer edge of the cornice
(for a complete description of the reglet construction
see Fig. 55), and brought around the stone work and
up against the parapet masonry, where it is held
by the cap flashing turned down over it. About mid-
way of the width of the gutter the two parts of the
lining should be joined by a soldered flat-lock seam.
In wide gutters (over 2 feet) this is secured to the
sheathing by cleats. In exceptionally large gutters
it is advisable to form a standing seam at the reglet
for expansion as shown in detail "A." The grading
of the gutter is done by sheathing laid over wood
blocking. The gutter outlet described in Fig. 53
may be used with Fig. 54 as well. The sides of the
gut r should be sloped somewhat, as shown, to
allow for free movement of the copper, and to pre-
vent ice in the gutter from pushing the corona stone
out of place.

Fig. 55. Copper flashing laid over or against

Stone or concrete should be well secured to the ma-
sonry with a water-tight joint. To do this a reglet
about 1 inch wide and 1 inch deep is cut in the stone or
cast in the concrete. The surface edge should be true,
but the interior sides and the bottom should be fairly

rough as thereby a better bond for caulking is obtained.
Some prefer also to flare the sides so the bottom of the
reglet is wider than the top. This gives a better bond
but costs more. The copper, formed as shown, is
laid to the bottom of this cut and securely caulked in
place. Molten lead is used for reglets in flat sur-
faces, and lead wool for upright work. To obtain
the best results from this very important operation
especial care must be taken to see that the copper
goes well to the bottom of the reglet and that the
caulking is thoroughly done. Some roofers fold the
edge of the copper sheet back on itself ^ inch and
place it in the reglet inclining to the bottom at an
angle of 60° or so. After caulking the reglet is filled
to the surface with elastic cement.

Fig. 56. When a stone balustrade is placed over

a stone molded course forming the front of a metal-
covered surface the metal is secured by a reglet. The
copper is set as described in Fig. 55, and the reglet
must be placed far enough back so that the bronze
dowels holding the balustrades will not cut through
the copper. The reglet is caulked as described in Fig. 55.
Sometimes the flashing must be run as a continuous
piece through the base course of the balustrade. In
this case holes are cut in the flashing for dowels.
Thimbles or caps (as described in Fig. 66) are placed
over them and soldered to the flashing sheet. The
stone is then set in place over the flashing.

Fig. 57. Copper lining for a stone band-course

supported by steel construction is shown in Fig. 57.
Such a course collects very little water so that the cop-
per need not extend very far up on the slope of the
stone to the line where it is secured by a caulked reglet,
but the copper should be turned up against the wall
high enough (about 4 inches above the top of the stone
molding) so that the water cannot enter the building.
The cap flashing is built into a reglet and turned
down over the gutter-lining to lap 4 inches. One way
of draining such a gutter is shown in Fig. 53.

Fig. 58. The base of a stone balustrade surround-
ing a balcony or similar projection should be flashed
with copper as indicated in Fig. 58. The copper is
secured on the outside of the balcony by a reglet cut in
the base below the balusters. (For complete details of
this reglet see Figs. 55 and 56). On the inside it is
placed in a reglet, as shown on the left, formed in the
face of the stone work and caulked with lead wool.
A soldered lock seam should be formed in the middle of
the gutter if it is more than 2 feet wide. Gutter con-
nections in this type of construction may be made to
the drainage-system as shown in Fig. 53.

In this type of enclosed gutter it is essential that
scuppers be built in the outside faces. They are not
shown in the illustration because their size and loca-
tion depend upon the design. They should be arranged
so that the bottom of the scupper will be not more
than 2 inches above the lowest point of the gutter
and large enough so that the gutter will drain rapidly
in case of stoppage of the outlet.

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STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig. 59. One method of flashing a terra-cotta

cornice is shown in Fig. 59. The cap flashing on the
outside of the balustrade and the flashing above it
extending through the wall are both built in as the
masonry progresses. Before laying the upper flash-
ing a key is formed by the mason to avoid the chance
of a side slip in the balustrade after erection. This
key may be formed either by setting two bricks on
edge or by the use of concrete; its exact size and loca-
tion is decided by the design. The copper flashing
should be formed closely over the projection in one
piece and wide enough so that it can extend entirely
through the wall and be turned down on the inside
far enough to lap the base flashing at least 4 inches,
and turned down outside about Yi inch over the terra
cotta to form a drip. The lower cap flashing, also
built in with the masonry, turns up against the brick
work back of the terra cotta at least 3 inches and
down outside on the face of the wall far enough to
lap the cornice flashing at least 4 inches. If the lap
is to be soldered the distance may be reduced accord-
ingly. The outer edge of the terra-cotta cornice
should be so designed as to provide a fastening for
the outer edge of the copper base flashing covering
the top of the cornice. (A good description of the
method of fastening is given in Fig. 63.)

Attention is called to the use of the ^-inch thick
bronze bar set in the top rail of the balustrade. This
bar is continuous on top of the balusters, and if pos-
sible should be returned at the ends of the balustrade
into the main w r all of the building and anchored. The
bar is placed on top of the balustrade dowels just
before the terra-cotta rail is placed in position.

Fig. 60. A terra-cotta cornice surmounted by

a brick parapet-wall faced by terra cotta and the
method of flashing same is show 7 n in Fig. 60. In this
type of construction it is important that the entire
top and back of the wall be covered with copper.
This will prevent the absorption of moisture by the
masonry through the joints of the terra cotta and
brick work and permit cutting down the width of the
terra-cotta cap. In designing the terra-cotta cap
the upper part of the cap should be made with a roll,
as indicated, from 1 to XYl inches in diameter. The
copper is formed over this roll and extended over the
top of the cap and down on the inside of the parapet-
wall where it is connected to the copper roof by a
soldered lock seam. The copper at the back of the
parapet should be formed with standing seams and
the top with flat seams soldered. The two are
joined by a lock seam hammered flat. The top of
the terra-cotta cornice should also be covered with
copper to protect the joints. The copper may be
formed over the upper member of the cornice as shown
or the cornice may be designed as shown in Fig. 59
and the copper formed over this step. In either case
it is secured in place by screws as described in detail
in Fig. 63. After securing the outer edge of the cop-
per as above described the metal is brought back over
the top of the cornice and turned up on the masonry.
There it is held in place by the copper flashing turned
down over it. For cornices with over 2 feet of pro-

jection it will be found expedient to form a soldered
lock seam half way across the projection and length-
wise of the cornice. The cap flashing begins at the
back of the terra cotta against the brick work and is
turned up against the brick work 3 or more inches,
then brought outside of the terra cotta and turned
down, lapping the base flashing 4 inches. If the lap
is soldered this distance may be reduced accordingly.

Fig. 6L Another method of forming a gutter
in a terra-cotta cornice surmounted by a brick

parapet-wall faced with terra cotta is shown in Fig.
61. The flashing is continued through the wall
beneath the terra-cotta cap to prevent seepage and
continues down on the inside of the parapet and is
formed with vertical standing seams (see Fig. 60) and
connected to the main roof copper by a soldered lock
seam. Attention is called to the key formed in the
masonry below the terra-cotta cap which is made as
described in detail in Fig. 59. The cornice flashing,
forming also the gutter-lining, is formed on its outer
edge over a terra-cotta roll (as described in detail in
Fig. 60) and extends back on the masonry, avoiding
all sharp angles, to the brick wall where it is turned
up on the wall high enough so that the top will be at
least 3 inches above the highest part of the outside
of the terra-cotta cornice. For gutters over 2 feet
wide a soldered lock seam should be formed longitu-
dinally in the middle of gutter. This seam is secured
by cleats nailed to wood strips set in the concrete.
(A method of connecting a gutter of this type to the
drainage-system is described in Fig. 53.) The cap
flashing is laid at the back of the terra-cotta facing
of the parapet about 3 inches up on the wall, and
extends out under the terra cotta to the outside,
where it is turned down 4 inches over the gutter-
lining. If this lap is soldered the distance may be
reduced accordingly.

Fig. 62. A balcony formed of terra cotta with

a rail of the same material and a window or door
opening to it and the method of flashing is shown in
Fig. 62. The copper is laid from the outside of the
cornice (secured either by screws as illustrated and
described in detail in Fig. 63, or over a roll as de-
scribed in Fig, 60), over a masonry key (described in
Fig. 59), and across the floor of the balcony to the
main walls, where it is turned up against the masonry
and under the terra-cotta and wood sills and up to
the back of the wood sill. The introduction of one
or more soldered lock seams will be necessary in the
floor of the balcony, depending upon the width, and
some provision should be made for copper-lined scup-
pers at such places and of such size as the design of
the rail may permit. The bottom of the scuppers
should always be about 2 inches above the lowest
point of the balcony floor. The flashing of the bal-
cony floor should rise on all sides from 2 to 3 inches
above the bottom of these scuppers. Attention is
called to the copper water-bar (described in detail in
Fig. 11) and the bronze bar in the balustrade rail
(described in Fig. 59).

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STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Fig. 63. A method of flashing a projecting

terra-cotta balcony enclosed by a metal rail with
a door or window opening to it is shown in Fig. 63.
Particular attention is called to the method of fasten-
ing the outer edge of the copper work to the terra
cotta as shown in detail in the lower left-hand corner.
When designing the terra cotta, provision should be
made for a step 134 inches or more in height above the
top molding. When the terra cotta is cast, and
while it is still in a plastic state, a row of holes is
punched in the face of this step about Y% of an inch
in diameter, \ l /i inches deep, and 8 or 9 inches apart.
Before the copper is placed there should be inserted
into these holes cylinders of sheet lead of a length
about Y% inch less than the depth of the hole and a
diameter the same as that of the hole. The edge of
the copper flashing containing a row of holes corres-
sponding to the holes in the terra cotta is then turned
down over the step at least 1 inch. A No. 12 round-
head brass wood-screw is inserted through the copper
and into the lead cylinder. As the screw is driven
home it expands the lead cylinder, forcing it against
the sides of the hole in the terra cotta, forming in effect
an expansion bolt, and making a tight and secure
fastening. It is generally not necessary to solder
over the top of the screw-heads but if much water
will come over the edge of the step it is good practice
to solder. After being thus secured at the outer
edge the copper is laid over the floor of the balcony,
using soldered lock seams where necessary, and then
turned up against the masonry at least 4 inches
where it is lapped by the cap flashing. When the
flashing is penetrated by upright posts such as the
corner posts of the balcony rail, in this instance, the
place where such penetration occurs must be carefully
protected by some means such as described in detail
in Fig. 66. 7 he regular flashing being first com-
pleted, then penetrated as required, and the corner
post secured to the masonry, the copper cap is formed
around the post or slipped over it and soldered to
the flashing and filled with waterproofing-compound.
(See Fig- 66 for a complete description of this method.)
J he cap flashing is placed before the terra-cotta
sill, the wood sill, or the balcony-floor flashing are
in position. It is made wide enough so that on com-
pletion it will lap the floor flashing 4 inches, extend
through the wall under the terra-cotta sill, and up
raid under the wood sill. After the cap flashing is
in pl.ice the terra-cot ta sill is placed; then the wood
sill. Some prefer to make the flashing wide enough
so that it will even extend up in back of the wood
sill, but if a water-bar is used this is not necessary.
The use of a copper water-bar at the joint between
the wood and terra-cotta sills is recommended. A
complete description of this feature and the method

of its application may be found in the drawing and
description of Fig. 11.

Fig. 64. When a terra-cotta balcony or similar

projecting feature serves as the base for columns,
pilasters, or other projections above the floor of the
balcony, the flashing is applied as shown in Fig. 64.
It is placed in a similar manner to that described for
Fig. 63 except that the cap flashing placed under the
terra-cotta window sill is also carried around under
the column bases, into the joints of which it is set
(as shown by the section in the lower left-hand
corner), and built in as the masonry progresses, and
before the base flashing and that of the balcony floor
is in position. Afterwards the cap flashing is turned
down over the base flashing at least 1 inch and the
seam soldered.

Fig. 65. A projecting window-cap or cornice of

terra cotta surmounted by a terra-cotta balustrade
is flashed and the rail steadied and secured to the
roof as show r n in Fig. 65. Attention is called to the
method of avoiding movement of the rail by bracing
it from the roof with bronze rods. For this purpose
a ^g-inch bronze bar extending the length of the rail
is placed on top of the balusters and connected by
vertical rods to the steel framing below and also to a
stay rod from the main roof. It is important that
the points where the ends of these rods are fastened
to the main roof be well-flashed. A complete descrip-
tion and a drawing of a suggested means of doing
this is given in Fig, 28.

Fig. 66. The left-hand side of the lower part

of Fig. 66 shows a half-section and the right-hand
side shows a half-elevation of a method of forming a
flashing cap of copper and securing it to the regular
roof flashing at such places as it may be necessary to
penetrate the roof flashing to permit the passage of
rods, dowels, anchors or similar metal shapes. In
the illustration the cap is shown round but it may be
made of any shape, and it should conform roughly
to the contour of the penetrating member. The
regular flashing sheet is cut at the points of penetra-
tion and the surplus metal turned up against the rod.
After the regular flashing is completed the cap is
placed in position. The cap is made out of a flat
piece of copper with the lower edge turned out. This
piece is either bent around the rod and the ends lapped
and soldered or the ends soldered first and slipped
over the top of the rod. The lower edge (previously
turned out) is then soldered to the flashing. Upon
completion the cap is filled with a waterproofing-
compound. The cap must be made large enough so
the sides will clear the rods, etc., at least 1 inch. Two
examples of the use of this cap are shown in Figs. 63
and 65.

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SCPEP/J SET //V
LEAD-

COPPEX M7E* 3AV

• *

FLASHING

Jrcr/0iVA-3

ELASHING rOR COL VAIN EASE OVER A
TERRA COTTA CORNirr

SKETCH SHOWING MtTtVD

or SETT/ NO CUPS

Pound orsqmpe
ROD

WATER PAOOr/A/(?
C&HPOVND

Coppfx

a/p —

/ 31/1/ D Af/ISONRYfo) AS I/SUAL
31/IJ.0/NG INJi/CH PODS, ANCHOR.

DOWELS ETC(R) AStf/ty &£
NEEQED,

Z, LAY FLASH INqCf) AM KING
EfOL EJ IN THE rLAsH/NG fo#
THE RODS (A) AS NEEDED,

3. JLIP THE CUP (c) OVER? THE POD
AND SOLDER TO FLASHING.

<?. FILL TNE CUP WITH WATERPROOF

/NG COMPOUND

-HOLE /I 4 DC /fit Tff£ FLA5H/H6 QV
JOB TO P/ISS POO

CUP SLIPPED OYFR POD

-JO/JVT JOLOCREP
*f7FP Pl/tC/A/<5

ONE mir

SEC T/O/V

ONE rtAL r
ZLEVAT/ON

COPPER CUP TO DE USED hi HEN FLASH I NO

0/? POOFI/VO IS PIERCED &YPODS ETC

STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

Figs. 67, 68, 69, 70, 71. These drawings are
based on the standard details and practice of the

Master Sheet Metal Roofers Association of Boston,
Mass., and are reproduced by their permission. They
show the methods used by this Association for flashing
the copings as well as the front and rear faces of para-
pet walls as found on factories throughout New Eng-
land. Where heavy snowfalls and sudden thaws are
to be expected, and it is fundamental in the design of a
factory that the temperature and humidity of the
interior be kept nearly constant, the problem of
flashing must be studied with great care. Ordinary
flashing methods are insufficient, for they do not
completely damp-proof the interior. It is necessary
to devise means of cutting off any dampness or mois-
ture which might seep down through the brick work
during a driving rain or when the roof is covered with
a foot or more of water-soaked snow.

These details represent the practical solution of
this problem by those most familiar with the condi-
tions to be overcome.

Fig. 67 shows a flashing for a brick wall less

than 24 inches high. 1 he base flashing is earned
as a sheathing the full height of the wall and is covered
by the cap flashing on the top of the wall. The sheets
forming this sheathing are joined by soldered flat
seams. (Compare with Fig. 70). The cap flashing,
formed as shown to give it stiffness, extends over the
top of the wall and is riveted on both sides to copper
straps placed two feet apart. After the cap is set
these straps are secured on the outside by nails driven
into the joints of the brick work, and on the inside by
soldering to the sheathing. The top of the wall
should be sloped slightly to drain inward. The cap
flashing is usually bedded in cement mortar. The
base flashing is fastened to the rooting as described
under "Bas< Flashings" below.

Fig. 68 shows a method of flashing under a

coping. 1 he eap flashing extends through the wall
under the coping and turns down x /i inch on the out-
side and 3 inches on the inside. The exposed edge is

turned back on itself Yi inch for stiffness. The cop-
ing is held in place by dowels which are made water
tight with thimbles as described in Fig. 66.

Fig. 69. A fire-wall is flashed with copper as

shown in Fig. 69. The cap flashing is similar to
that shown in Fig. 67. It is bedded in cement mor-
tar, extends down the wall on both sides 4 inches, and
is fastened to the sheathings or base flashings by
copper straps secured as described in Fig. 67. The
top of the wall is sloped for drainage.

Fig. 70 shows a flashing for a brick wall more

than 24 inches high. The cap flashing is used over
a wood coping piece, and may be fastened in two
ways. The lower figure uses the same method as is
shown in Figs. 67 and 69, the cap flashing being held
by brass wood screws. The alternate method illus-
trated at the top is better, as the overhang of the
wood coping allows the screws to be placed under-
neath where water cannot enter the hole in the
metal. This does away with soldering the screw
heads. The cap flashing also has a drip on the out-
side which keeps the wash away from the brick work.
The base flashing is formed as standing seam
sheathing. It is held at the top by the screws used
to fasten the cap piece, and extends down to lap the
cap flashing set in the brick work in the usual manner.
(Figs. 48 and 49). The base flashing is placed as
described under "Base Flashings" below. The advan-
tage of this double flashing is in the extra safeguard
provided against water finding its way back of the
base flashing.

Fig. 71. A flashing for a Brick parapet wall

faced with stone is shown here. The counter-
flashing extends through the brick backing and into
the joint of the stone courses one inch. This makes
a cut-off against seepage. The base flashing is placed
is described under "Base Flashings" below. Where
this method is used with a wall exposed to heavy wind
pressure the counter flashings should be keyed (as
shown in Fig. 62.).

BASE FLASINGS FOR BUILT-UP ROOFING

Attention is directed to the U. S. Go\ eminent
Master Si rifications for the Installation of Metal
Flashings with Built-up Bituminous Roofing, adopted
by the 1 deral Specifications Board on June 1, 1924,

s Specification No. 156.

Where used against vertical walls this specifi-
ation calls for three layer! of felt saturated with

pitch and extending 6 inches up the walls and out

0\ r the roofing felt to lap 6, 5, and 4 inches, respec-
tivelj . A strip of metal is then rounded, not sharply
bent, into the proper shape and set in the angle against
the layers of felt. This strip of metal extends out
on the roof at least 6 inches and up on the wall at
least ; inches.

When used with board sheathing th- strip is nailed
at the edge every six inches to the roof boards through
the roofing. Over the metal strip on the roof two
plies of felt at least 15 inches wide are laid. These
are thoroughly cemented to each other and the

roofing by hot pitch.

The association agrees with the recommendations of
the Federal Specifications Board for base flashings.
The method of securing cap-flashings in reglet

and brick work shown elsewhere in this book differs
from that recommended by the Federal Specifications
Board as the Association believes that it is better to
build flashings into brick work than to place them in
grooves made in the joints.

COPPER CAP rLASHIN<f-3EDDED /N CEMENT AND7V LAP HALL

HOUR INCHES ON ONE SIDt AND KXjPAND ONE HALF /NCHES

CH THE OTHER —

4^ • .^

RIVETS SECURING STRAPS
7& CAP FLASHING

COPPER STRAPS ABOUT

TWO FEETOV CENTRE —

BAREfED COPPER NS/L S
DRIVEN IN JOINTS'

r^ ' COPPER SWAPS TWO
PTET ON CENTRES
R/VETED TQCflPflASH'
/N<? AND SOI 0ERED
TZ>COPP£P SHEATH

STONE OR CONCRETE OR TC.
COPING

COPING TD PROJECT
EETVNDPfEJAL AT
CAST ONE INCH
WCACNSIDZ v. .

■ • •

>/y///\ K777T7\

riAT SEAPT COPPER
SHEATHING

PLASHING TOEXTEND

THRU HAL L AMD

TURN DOHN ONE-
HALF INCH ON TH/S

SIDE AND THREE

INCHES ON TH£

OTHER S/DE O/EP
THEWAUFLASH/NG

3RONZF DOWELS
ATJNTtRVALS
FLA 5 Jit D US ///
FJ<5- GG ■

' • - * , V ' .

PLASHING PDRADRICK WAL L NOPE THAN
ONE FOOT HIGH ABOVE COUNTCPTLASHING

conporoof

COPPER CAP nASH/m-££0£>ED /N CEfEVTANPTO
AP HALL roUP /NCWCS ON EACH SJDE

COPPER NfiJLS

.'U/; • VLJ KJ:-

■;;>■>> Vr -A . ■ - .• : n .. ■• •-• . -

//'"a v.«,:w.

' o -

COPPER SfciPS AS
CH OTHER S/PE —

PLASM I NO POP A ERICH WALL LESS THAN
WE HIT POUR INCHES HIGH

WOOD SET/N CE/fCNT

AND EOITED TOtYALL-

AL TEPNATE DESIGN

EOPA COPPER COP/NO

- COPPER POP/1 ED OVER WOOD AND
SECURED TD MOP ST SCREWS Op

NA/l J ■

co prep sH&mm

ASONCTMRSJDE —

COPPER STRAPS

SPACE P AEOUT TWO
/TETON CENTRES,

R/V£ PED TO CAP NASH
IN€ AND SOLVE RED TD
COPPER SHEATHING

COPPER SPEATH/NG

MTHSTANplNG JEANS

COPPER COPING A/ND rLA5h/N(j fVR
Ttlt TOP Or A DRICK WALL

-rOREI DR/P

NAIL OR SCREW TO WOOD

STONE, CONCRETE,

OR TZRRfi COTTA
COP/A/G

COPPER /S FJTTED TO WOOD AND SHOULD LAP WALL 7H#r£ /Nc*£S 4P
OUTS 'IDE ANP FOUR AND A HALT INCI/ES OP THE /HS/PE

» *

• I

•

• •

•

COPPER SECURED
10 WOOD ON BOTH

SIDES 5Y MASS
WOOD SCREWS U/7H
SIOTTTD WASHERS -

-A*— t.

' '

■ WOOD SET /N PEN EH T
AMD SOL TED TV NALL

STONE
FAC/Nf-

~^+

•

CAP FLASHING -TO LAP

'l^A

DA5E PLASHING FOUR

INCHES AND 3E SET

ONE INCH IN &RICK

JO/NT

AASE riLASNJNG-TO

ESX TEND 6 INCHES UP

WALL AND G ///CMS
OUT ON ROOF

> COPPER //AILS

/ COAfPO POOF-

. . *

• •

■ . .

" ■ ■ • 1

- .

1—7

* • % *> •

:•:■

m$^m

COPPER CAPFL ASHING-
TV EXTEND THROUGH
3R/CKWPK AND LAP
JTOZ/Lr ONE /A f CN

• « •

* »

r «

v$m&

mzzM^„

- c

•

• . •

• *

^^E2

^3^

-7—2 — rrir — < * r t P * .-

COPPER EASE FLASHING
TURNED UP 5 INCHES
ON fNALL AND OUT
6 INCHES ON ROOr

conpo poor

^nv

PL AS HI NO POP A BRICK WALL NOPE TNAN 1 7n
TWENTY POUR INCHES NI6H uu

STANDARD DETAILS— COPPER & BRASS RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

FLASHING TOP A 5R/CK PARAPET
WALL PACED WITH STONE

STANDARD SPECIFICATIONS FOR SHEET-COPPER

WORK

STANDARD SPECIFICATION NO. 1
(A Short Specification Covering all Sheet-Copper Work in a Buildin

1. Unless otherwise particularly specified, all sheet-metal work and all material and labor in connec-
tion therewith shall be furnished and performed in strict compliance with the recommended practice and
Standard Specifications for Sheet-Copper Work of the Copper & Brass Research Association,
25 Broadway, N. Y.

[Attention is directed to the use of Alternate Methods in Specification No. 2, as described
in Note No. 1 below.]

STANDARD SPECIFICATION NO. 2

(Covering in detail Flashings, Roof -Drainage, etc.)

NOTES

1. It should be noted that, wherever in this long specification Alternate Methods of doing work
are described, they are listed in order of recommended practice. In every case the first listed
(letter A) describes recommended best practice. When this specification is used in connection
with specification No. 1, there should be a definite understanding between the contracting
parties about Alternate Methods.

2. Where Different Methods of applying flashings, etc., to different kinds of construction are col-
lected under one general heading (as in No. 29 — Cap Flashings) the paragraphs have been
sub-numbered 1, 2, 3, etc.

3. The arrangement of subjects has been made to agree, as nearly as possible, with the usual
arrangement of sheet-metal specifications for the average building.

4. For the convenience of the specification-writer paragraphs have been numbered consecutively,
and all Alternates and Different Methods have been given a designating legend.

2. General. The General Conditions of the contract are hereby made a part of the

contract and this contractor shall examine these General Conditions and
thoroughly acquaint himself with all the requirements therein contained.

3. Scope of Work. Except as otherwise specified this contract includes the furnishing

of all labor and materials necessary to complete in every respect in accord-
, ance with the best practice all the Sheet-Copper work of every descrip-

tion for this building.

4. Contractor to Examine This contractor shall carefully examine all surfaces prepared for
Surfaces flashings, etc., by other trades, shall point out all defects, and shall see

that the necessary corrections are made before proceeding with his work.
This contractor shall arrange his work so as to co-operate at all times
with other trades and prevent delay or damage to other work.

5. Precautions against During construction care shall be taken to prevent damage to flash-
Damage during Con- ings in place by walking or placing heavy materials on them. As soon as
struction. soldering is done and flashings are completed, the work shall be thor-
oughly cleaned. Toward completion, all damaged work shall be repaired,
shall have all stains and debris removed, and shall be left in perfect
condition.

6. Guarantee. This contractor shall guarantee his work free from all defects of

workmanship for a period of two years after completion and shall make
good all defects and all damage to the building from leaks during that
time. If so directed by the architect this contractor shall execute a
proper guarantee bond.

7. Preparation of Surfaces- All surfaces to receive flashings shall be made smooth and even, and

all nail heads shall be set.

8. Building Paper.

9* Sheet-Copper,

10.

Soft (Roofing

Copper*

Hard (Cornice

Copper.

Temper)
Temper)

11. Tin.

12. Solder

All surfaces to be covered with copper shall be covered first with
rosin-sized or asbestos-felt paper weighing not less than 6 pounds per
100 square feet. Paper shall lap 2 inches and be nailed with flat-head
copper nails.

Where shown on drawings or described in these specifications all
sheet-metal of every description shall be of copper.

All copper sheets used shall be rolled from copper conforming to the
Standard Specifications of the American Society for Testing Materials.

All copper sheets shall be plainly marked with the manufacturers'
name and the weight.

Except as otherwise specified, all copper throughout the work shall
be of 16-ounce, soft (roofing temper) copper sheets.

All leaders, eaves troughs, and molded hanging gutters shall be of
16-ounce, hard (cornice temper) copper.

All tin used for tinning seams for soldering, etc., shall be best grade,
pure metal.

All solder shall be of the best grade, equal to Specification B-32 of the
American Society for Testing Materials, and shall be composed of one-half
pig lead and one-half block tin (new metals).

13. Flux.

Rosin shall be used as a flux.

14. Nails and Fastenings.

All nails, rivets and similar fastenings used throughout the work shall
be of best grade hard copper or brass.

Nails shall be wire nails not less than No. 12 gage and not less than

Y% inch long.

15. Tinning.

The edges of all sheets to be soldered shall be tinned l}/% inches on
both sides. Rosin shall be used as a flux.

16. Soldering-Coppers.

All soldering shall be done with heavy soldering-coppers of blunt
design, properly tinned before use. They shall weigh not less than 6
pounds to the pair. For flat seam work on decks, in gutters, etc., they
shall v iiih not less than 10 pounds to the pair.

17. Soldering.

18. Slopes of Roofs.

19. Seams.

20. Double Lock Seams

Soldering shall be done slowly with well-heated coppers so as to
thoroughly heat the seam and completely amalgamate the tin with the
solder. Plenty of solder shall be used and the seam shall show when
finished at least one full inch of thick, evenly flowed solder.

On roofs having a slope of less than 1 on 4 all flat and lap seams
shall be soldered. On roofs having a slope of 1 on 4 or greater, flat and
lap seams shall not be soldered.

Standing Seams shall finish not less than 1 inch high.

Mat, or Lock, Seams shall finish not less than }/£ inch wide.

Lap Seams, where soldered, shall finish not less than 1 inch wide.

Lap Seams not soldered shall lap at least 3 inches.

All Flat and Lap Seams shall be made in the direction of the flow.

Sheets to be double or copper-locked shall hax a 1 ] 2 -inch turn-up

t the edges which shall be folded over with the edge of the adjoining

sheet three complete turns so that the finished s im shall be 6-ply and

shall finish ] £ inch wid '1 he seam so formed shall be malletcd down

and on flat surfaces the edge shall be tipped with solder.

21. Loose-Lacked Seams

Where, on copper-covered surfaces, an intersection of roof planes,
or an abrupt change of slope, shall occur, the joint between the flashings
on the two surfaces shall be an unsoldered loose-locked seam similar to
a standing seam hammered flat or a double lock seam. It shall be placed
as close to the line of intersection as possible and shall be so formed as
to preclude leakage. It shall not be fastened to the roof, except that at
the cross seams of the sheets so joined cleats may be set close to the
loose-locked seam.

22. Crimped Copper.

All copper sheets used for flashings, gutter-linings, etc., shall be
crimped by passing through heavy rolls to form 3/16-inch ridges in the
sheets in the direction of the short dimension.

23. Size of Sheets.

(-1.) Strip copper shall be used for all flashings up to 18 inches
in width.

(-2.) In general flashings for flat surfaces such as decks, crickets,
etc., shall be of sheets not larger than 18x24 inches. Under special
conditions larger sheets may be used with the approval of the architect.

(-3.) All built-in and lined gutters shall be flashed with sheets
of size specified under "Built-in Gutters. "

24. Cleats and Fastenings

All flashings over 12 inches wide shall be fastened by cleats lj/£
inches wide and about 3 inches long, spaced as specified elsewhere.
They shall be secured to the roof by two nails set about % of an inch
from the end and shall have the end turned back V9 inch over the nail
heads. The free end of the cleat shall be turned over J/2-mch to engage
the edge of the sheet and shall be locked into the seam. Where seams
are soldered cleats shall be tinned. Except as otherwise specified cleats
shall be spaced not more than 12 inches apart. Where used with 18 x 24-
inch sheets four cleats shall be used for each sheet.

Flashings less than 12 inches wide shall be secured by nails spaced
as specified for different types of flashings. Where flashings are nailed
the nailing shall be restricted to one edge only. Nails shall be near the
edge and shall be evenly spaced not more than 4 inches apart, unless
otherwise specified.

25. Exposed Edges.

The exposed edges of all flashings shall be folded under
such manner as to conceal them from view.

inch, in

26, Flashings
quired.

Where Re-

27. Continuous Flashings.

All intersections of roofs with vertical surfaces of every kind and all
openings in roof surfaces, shall be flashed with copper. The method of
flashing, except as otherwise shown or specified, shall be base and counter-,
or cap, flashing.

Where the design or construction is such that the base and counter-
flashing method is impracticable, flashings shall be made continuous from
the roof surface up and into the vertical surface. Flashings of this type
shall be made generally in two or more pieces, locked and soldered to-
gether. Where possible the joints shall be made by flat or double lock
seams. Otherwise lap seams shall be used.

28. Base Flashings

(— 1.) Unless otherwise specified or shown on the drawings base
flashings shall be, in general, at least 4 inches high, and shall project at
least 4 inches out on to the roof. Flashings shall be full pieces 96 inches
in length. On sloping roofs they shall lap longitudinally at least 3
inches. On flat roofs the joints shall be flat-locked and soldered.

(-2.) Against stucco-coated walls, the metal lath shall lap outside
the flashing so that the stucco shall finish over the flashing.

Cap Flashings or
Counter-Flashings

Flashings.

(Masons' Specification.)

31. Step Flashings.

32. Vent Flashings.

Cap flashings shall turn down over base flashings not less than
4 inches. They shall be secured to vertical surfaces as follows:

(—1.) Wood Work. They shall extend up under exterior cover-
ings such as shingles, slate, etc., at least 2 inches above the butt of the
second course, and in no case less than 4 inches above the roof, and shall
be nailed along the top edge about every 8 inches.

(-2.) Mason Work. They shall extend into joints of masonry
walls 4 inches and have the inner edge turned back on itself x /i inch. The
sheets shall be bent to the required shapes, and built in with the mason
work. No cutting-out of joints for setting flashings will be allowed.

(-3.) Reglets. They shall be secured, as specified below, in
reglets cut in the masonry.

(—4.) Stucco on Wood. When used with stucco-covered wood-
frame walls, cap flashings shall be formed over a J^-inch base board and
extend up the wall at least 2 inches above the base board, and be nailed at
the top edge with nails about 8 inches apart. Metal lath shall be placed
over the flashing and the stucco shall be finished against the base board.

(-5.) Stucco on Masonry. They shall be built into the masonry
as the work progresses and shall project out from the wall as required
and turn down over the base flashing. The stucco shall finish against
the cap flashing.

(-6.) Concrete Walls. They shall be set in the forms before the
concrete is poured. They shall extend into the wall at least 2 inches
and shall have the inner edges turned back Yl inch.

Where indicated on the plans or specified build in all flashings furnished
by the sheet-metal contractor and as directed by him.

Step flashings shall be used where veitical surfaces occur in connec-
tion with slopes.

(-1.) 1 hey shall be formed of separate pieces built into the masonry
as specified for cap flashings in masonry. Steps shall lap generally 3
inches, but in no case less than 2 inches, and shall not be soldered.

(-A.) Lap joints shall be vertical.
(-B.) Lap joints shall be normal to the slope of the roof.

(-2.) The) shall extend into the wall one course of brick and turn
up 1 inch in back. Each piece shall be formed to lap the next piece
below 1 inch on the sides, and as each piece is set both the horizontal
and vertical joints shall be soldered to the piece below so that the finished
flashing shall form a complete watertight cap.

All pipes passing through roofs shall be flashed and counter-flashed.
Base flashings shall extend out on the roof not less than 6 inches.

(-1.) 1 hey shall be of sufficient length to cover the roofing course
next below the pipe and to extend up under the roofing course above as
tar as possible without puncture by nails.

(-2.) \\ here vent-pipes extend more than 12 inches above the roof
the counter-flashing shall be caulked into the hubs or held with brass
mps embedded in elastic cement or white lead. It shall lap the base
flashing at least 4 inches.

(-3.) Where the vent extends not more than 12 inches above the
i oof surface, it shall be flashed as follows:

Cast-iron Pip*. The base flashing shall be carried up to within
an inch of the top of the pipe and shall be countci flashed by a copper
cap 6 inches high, turned ov< and down into the pipe at least 2 inches.

Threaded Pipe. The base flashing shall extend up to wit Inn 2
inches of the end of the pipe, which shall be threaded. After the i ih-
ing is in place the threads shall be covered with white lead and an iron
or steel cap, of such design as to enclose the flashing material, shall be
screwed onto the pipe.

(-4.) Patented vent-flashing devices may be used, subject to the
approval of the architect. They shall be made of 18-ounce copper, shall
be the product of a recognized manufacturer, and shall be installed accord-
ing to manufacturers directions.

33. Open Valley Flashings.

(-1.) Open valleys shall be not less than 4 inches wide. The
proper width shall be determined by the following rule: Starting at the
top with a width of 4 inches, increase the width 1 inch for every 8 feet of
length of the valley. Flashing pieces shall be full length sheets, and
of sufficient width to cover the open portion of the valley and extend up
under the roof covering not less than 4 inches on each side.

There shall be no longitudinal seams in open valley flashings. The
cross seams at the ends of sheets shall be locked and soldered. Edges
shall be turned back l /2 inch and held in place by cleats spaced not more
than 12 inches apart, and nailed to the sheathing with two nails.

(—2.) "Fold-over" Flashings shall be used, of such design as to
allow not less than 3 inches beyond the fold to be covered by the roofing.
They shall be secured by cleats not more than 12 inches apart.

(—3.) Where two valleys of unequal size come together, or where
the areas drained by the valley are unequal, there shall be placed in
the valley a "crimp/' angle, or Tee not less than 1 inch high. This may
be formed in the valley sheet before placing, or it may be made of a
separate piece soldered to the valley sheet.

34. Closed Valley Flashings.

(—1.) Built-In Method. Flashing pieces for closed valleys shall
be of sufficient length to extend 2 inches above the top of the roofing piece
and lap the flashing piece below 3 inches, and of width sufficient to extend
up the sides of the valley far enough to make the valley 4 inches deep.
1 hey shall be placed with the roofing so that all pieces are separated
by a course of shingles or slate. Pieces shall be set so as to lap at least
3 inches and to be entirely concealed by the roof covering. They shall
be fastened by nails at the top edge only.

(-2.) Large Piece Method, Before the roof covering is laid this
contractor shall place in all valleys long strips of copper of sufficient
width to make a trough at least 4 inches deep. These strips shall be
laid from bottom to top of the valley with a 4-inch lap, unsoldered. Where
such strips are not over 12 inches wide they shall be fastened with nails
spaced every 18 inches along the outer edge. Strips over 12 inches wide
shall be fastened by 1^-inch cleats, spaced every 30 inches.

(-3.) All closed valley flashings shall be made with a "crimp" or
ridge down the center equal to the full thickness of the roof-covering

courses.

Cricket or Saddle Flash-
ings.

Crickets or saddles formed back of all vertical surfaces, such as
chimneys, etc., breaking through sloping roofs, shall be covered with
copper. The flashing of these crickets shall be made a part of the flash-
ing along the sides of the chimney, etc.

Window and Door Head
Flashings.

Window and door frames set in frame construction shall have a
flashing of copper over the head. This flashing shall be set after the
frame is placed and shall be carried up the wall 2 inches above the butt
of the second course of shingles, slate, etc., and in no case less than 3
inches above the window head. The bottom edge of the flashing shall be

(—A.) secured to the trim by an edge-strip as specified elsewhere.

(-B.) turned down over the trim and shall finish back of, and be
secured by, the outside molding of the trim.

(— C.) nailed at 1-inch intervals to the vertical face of the trim.

(-D.) bent at a sharp angle to bear tightly against the top fillet of
the molding, and the upper edge of the flashing, under the shingles, shall
be secured by nails placed about 8 inches apart.

37.

38.

39.

41.

Window and
Flashings-

Door Sill

Window and Door Sill
Flashings. (Carpenter's

Specification.)

Window and Door Sill

Flashings.

(Mason's Specification.)

40. Water-table Flashings-

Hips and Ridge Flash-
ings.

42. Column-Cap Flashings.

43. Column-Base Flashings.

44. Ventilator Flashings.

45. Guy-Anchor Flashings

(-1.) Sill flashings for window frames in frame construction shall
be set before the frame is placed. They shall extend to the back of the
window sill and shall be nailed after the frame is set, and shall also extend
4 inches outside beyond the sill.

(-2.) Wood sills set in stone or concrete shall have a strip of 20-
ounce or heavier hard (cornice temper) copper at the joint. Just before
setting the wood sill this reglet shall be filled with waterproofing-com-
pound and the strip shall be embedded in it.

The sills of zvood frames set in stone or concrete shall have a slot 1 inch
leep to receive a copper flashing strip.

Stone or concrete sills under wood uindozc or door frames shall ha
a l-inch by \-inch reglet cut or cast in them to receive a copper flashing strip.

Water-table flashings shall extend up the sheathing at least 2 inches
above the butt of the second course of siding, and in no case less than 4

inches.

(-A.) It shall be formed over the edge of the water-table to make a
drip and shall be secured at the upper edge by nails 4 inches apart.

(-B.) If the edge-strip method of fastening is used the upper edge
shall be nailed about every 8 inches.

(-1.) Install hip and ridge flashings over battens set by other
contractors. They shall be secured on either side of the roll by round-
head brass w 7 ood-screws about 12 inches apart, set through washers.
Holes in the roof covering shall be drilled. The heads of the screws
and washers shall be soldered.

(-2.) Hip and ridge rolls of design shown shall be installed over
battens, etc., set by other contractors. The apron shall be held down
by 3/16 x 1-inch brass bands 30 inches apart, secured to the batten
by brass wood screws through countersunk holes.

The upper surfaces of all exposed column caps shall be flashed.
The flashing shall be formed to fit the cap and shall be turned down
Y2 i nc h over the edge of the cap and nailed every 1 }/£ inches. A separate
piece shall be fitted over the dowel and soldered to the main flashing.

Bases of wood columns shall be flashed by a cap made to fit the
dowel used to secure the column. The cap shall have- a flange extending
out on the roof on all sides the necessary distance to provide for water-
proofing, as specified elsewhere for different kinds of roofing materials.

Where metal ventilators are used on a roof they shall be connected
to the flashing by a soldered lap seam. The flashing sheet shall extend
out over the roofing on all sides at least 6 inches.

(-1.) On shingle or slate roofs the flashing shall be secured by
round-head brass wood-screw r s set through holes drilled in the roof cover-

The screws shall be set with slotted brass washers and shall be

The sides of the flashing shall be formed with a

ing.

soldered to the flashing.

mallet over the roofing.

When bolts or similar devices penetrate sloping roof coverings, they
shall be flashed as follows:

Before the courses above the bolt are laid, a piece of copper about 8
inches wide shall be placed over the lower roof covering and the sheathing
with the bolt projecting through a hole in the center. The sheet shall be
of sufficient length to lap the first course below the bolts 4 inches and up
and under the courses above as far as possible without puncture by
nails. The joint between the bolt and the sheet shall be closed by

(—A.) Soldering to the sheet a flanged copper thimble placed around

the bolt and caulked with waterproofing-compound.
(— B.) Soldering the sheet to the bolt.

46.

Flashings for Built-Up

Roofing.

(Roofers' Specification.)

47. Gravel -Stops.

48.

Flashing Around
Struts.

Steel

49. Flag Pole Flashings.

50.

Flashings for Clay and
Cement Roof Tile.

51. Scuttles.

When used with built-up roofing base flashings shall be not less than
5 inches high and extend at least 6 inches out on the roof, in accordance with
Specification No. 156 of the Federal Specification Board for the Installation
of Metal Flashings with Bituminous Built-up Roofings.

Cap flashings shall be installed by the Sheet-Metal Contractor as speci-
fied elsewhere. The Roofing Contractor shall read carefully the sheet-metal
specification.

Gravel-stops shall be placed at the edges of all built-up roofs covered
with slag or gravel. They shall be formed of one piece of copper to
provide a ridge the full height of the roofing material at the outer edge.
They shall project on the roof at least 4 inches and be nailed on top of the
waterproofing fabric, embedded in pitch, and covered with two layers of
felt well-mopped with pitch.

Where steel struts, etc., penetrate a flat roof, a copper pan about

2 inches high above the finished roof level shall be formed around the
member. It shall have a flange projecting out on top of the roofing
felt or waterproofing at least 2 inches. This flange shall be covered with
two layers of felt carried out on the roofing not less than 6 inches and
well-mopped with pitch. The pan so formed shall be filled with pitch,
and the top surface sloped to drain freely.

(-A.) Flag poles penetrating a flat roof shall have a circular base
flashing extending up the pole at least 10 inches, and 1 inch larger in
diameter than the pole. A conical hood secured to the pole by a 1-inch
brass band set in white lead and bolted, shall lap the base Hashing at least

3 inches. The whole flashing shall be so constructed as to allow for the

movement of the pole.

(-B.) Patented flashing-flanges or similar devices for Hashing Hag
poles shall be used subject to the approval of the architect. They shall
be the product of a recognized manufacturer and shall have a flashing
of 18-ounce copper. They shall be installed in accordance with the
manufacturer's directions.

Flashings shall be laid as specified elsewhere for base, cap, and
continuous flashings. All base flashings running with the length of the
tile shall extend out on the roof under the tile as far as is possible without
puncture by nails, and shall be formed into a trough by turning up the
edge at an angle of 90 degrees. So far as is possible flashings shall be laid
to avoid sharp bends and angles, and shall not be nailed. They shall be
held in place by the weight of the tile. The manufacturer's specifications
shall be followed for flashings of special shapes, etc.

Where vent-pipes occur the tiles broken by the pipes shall be bedded
in mortar or secured with nails and covered with the Hashing. Flashings
shall extend down the roof to the end of the tile, out on the sides to the
first lock or trough, and up the roof to and over the wood battens or to the

nails securing the tiles.

Valley flashings shall be formed to fit the type of tile used and shall
extend up the sides of the intersecting slopes, or be turned over the sup-
porting wood battens, to form a valley at least 4 inches deep.

Flashings against the sides of dormers, etc., on sloping roofs shall
continue as a trough under the tile and discharge out on top ot the rde

below or into the gutter.

Exposed fishings shall extend with the length ot the tiles at least 6
inches and shall be formed over them. Those extending crosswise shall
terminate in depressions or locks and be held in place by the adjoining
tiles.

Covers of roof scuttles shall be covered with copper. Sheets shall
be laid with flat seams soldt-red, and shall be carried ovei the edge to the
underside where they shall be secured with nails l 1 ^ inches apart.

52. Curbs

53. Edge-Strips.

54. Drips.

55. Eaves- Strips

56. Eaves Trough and
Hangers.

Curbs around roof openings shall have a flashing turned down on the
inside about 3 inches and secured with nails \ l /i inches apart. It shall
extend out on the roof as specified for base flashings.

Where indicated on the drawings, flashings shall be secured by brass
edge-strips, }/% inch thick by \ l /i inches wide. Strips shall be fastened to
the vertical face of the projection by brass screws about 12 inches apart,
and set to allow the copper flashing to be hooked over the lower edge at
least % of an inch.

Where indicated on the drawings, form drips of 24-ounce hard (cor-
nice temper) copper strips. These shall be nailed to the projection and
bent down. They shall project not more than % of an inch below the
sheathing or the upper fillet of the molding, and shall have the flashing
hooked over the lower edge at least ^ of an inch.

Install strips of copper along all eaves and roof edges except where
gutters occur. They shall have a J/£-inch folded lower edge projecting
of an inch below the sheathing or fillet of the molding to form a drip,
and shall extend back on the roof 3 inches. At the intersection of
vertical roof surfaces they shall have a folded rib of height equal to the
thickness of roofing. They shall be installed in not exceeding 96-inch
lengths, with 2-inch end laps, shall be laid underneath the sheathing
paper and nailed along the inside edge.

Eaves trough, or half-round hanging gutters, of the size and type
shown, shall be installed where shown on the drawings. They shall be in
10-foot lengths and shall be joined by a 1-inch lapped and soldered joint,
or by slip joints. All joints shall be made in the direction of the flow.

Eaves trough shall be provided with end pieces, end caps, outlet
tubes and mitres as required.

Eaves trough shall be supported by (1) copper or brass strap or
rod hangers of approved design; (2) heavy copper wire hangers; or (3)
cast brass hook-type hangers.

(-1.) Strap and rod hangers shall be spaced not more than 36
inches apart and shall be secured to the roofing by brass screws.

(-2.) Wire hangers shall be spaced not more than 24 inches apart
and shall be secured to the roofing by heavy copper nails.

(-3.) Cast brass hangers shall be adjustable for slope and shall be
spaced not more than 36 inches apart. They shall be secured by

brass screws.

57. Molded Gutters.

Molded gutters of the size and design shown shall be installed where
indicated on the drawings. They shall have a flange which shall extend
up on the roof sheathing as far as possible without puncture by nails,
and shall be held in place by cleats 30 inches apart.

If impracticable to provide the flange, the gutter edge shall be locked
and soldered to a flashing strip set as above specified.

The outer edge of the gutter shall be stiffened by a brass rod or
rectangular bar, and provided with a proper drip. Braces of heavy cop-
per or brass, spaced 30 inches, shall be locked around or riveted to the
outer edge, and secured to the roof sheathing above the flange or flashing
by 2 brass screws.

Joints of molded gutters shall lap 1 inch and be secured with rivets
spaced 1 inch, and soldered.

Outlets shall be provided with tubes soldered to the gutter of proper
length to connect to the leaders.

58. Linings for Molded Gut
ters.

59. Pole Gutters and
Gutter-Strips.

60. "Shingle Flashings."

61. Wire Strainers.

62.

Leaders, Conductors,
or Downspouts.

63, Leader Heads

64. Reglets.

\\ here indicated on the drawings install gutter-linings of soft (roofing
temper) copper. They shall be shaped to fit the bottom of the gutter
and shall slope toward the outlet. All joints shall be lapped and soldered.

Where indicated on the drawings form gutters over wood poles or
strips set by the carpenter contractor. Linings shall extend up the roof
as tar as is possible without puncture by nails, and shall be secured with
cleats spaced 24 inches. Linings shall turn down over the pole and lock
to a flashing strip, secured to the outer face of the pole by cleats and
extending out over the roof covering at least 4 inches.

Outlets shall be provided with tubes soldered to the lining and of
length sufficient to connect to the leaders.

All outlets of molded or pole gutters set on sloping roofs covered with
shingles, slate, etc., shall be provided with a "shingle flashing," and a
tube of length sufficient to connect to the leader.

This flashing shall consist of a sheet extending down the roof from
the outside of the gutter at least one course of shingles and at least 6
inches up the roof under the gutter. It shall extend 6 inches on either
side of the outlet. A sleeve shall be soldered to it and shall be inserted
into the leader. The tube shall be set into this sleeve, which shall project
down the leader beyond the end of the tube.

Ihe flashing shall be constructed to prevent leakage under the gutter
and down the outside of the tube through the hole in the roof sheathing

(-A.) All gutter outlets shall be fitted with approved copper wire
strainers of the basket-type set in loose.

(-B.) All gutter outlets shall be fitted with No. 14 gage copper
wire strainers of the basket-type set in loose.

Vertical wires shall be spaced x /i inch, and shall be reinforced with
horizontal wires 3 inches apart, extending around the basket, with each
joint soldered.

Leaders shall be installed where shown on the drawings, of the shapes
and sizes indicated. They shall be held in position, clear of the wall, by

(-1.) Brass hooks, driven into the wall not more than 6 feet apart,

(-2,) Heavy brass or copper straps, l /% by \ 1 /^ inches, spaced not
more than 6 feet apart, soldered to the leaders, and fastened (1) to wood
work by brass screws; (2) to masonry by brass screws set in lead sleeves.

(-3.) Ornamental straps of (1) stock design; (2) the design shown,
and made of (1) hard (cornice temper); (2) soft (roofing temper) copper.

Leaders shall be in 10-foot lengths, and shall be lapped, tinned inside
and out, and soldered. A 1^-inch slip joint shall be provided every
20 feet of leader.

When leaders connect with underground drains they shall be fitted
into drain-pipes and shall have the joint neatly cemented. All leaders
not so connected shall have elbows at the bottom. Those discharging at
ground level shall have heavy shoes with reinforced ends.

Leader heads of (1) stock design ; (2) the design shown, shall be placed
where indicated on the drawings. Outlet tubes from gutters shall extend
into them about 2 inches. The bottom of the leader head shall be
soldered to the leader.

Large leader heads (12 inches wide or over) shall have a heavy
copper-wire removable screening over the top.

Where indicated on the drawings or where directed by the architect
flashings shall finish in reglets in the masonry cut by others where located
by this contractor.

The flashing shall be turned into the reglet the full depth and shall
be turned back to form a hook.

{Continued on next page)

65.

Reglets.

(Masons' Specification.)

66. Scuppers.

Scuppers.

(Carpenters' or Masons'

Specification.)

68. Built-in Gutter-Linings.

( § 64 continued)

After the flashing is in place the reglet shall be filled and caulked, using
molten lead on flat surfaces, and lead wool on vertical surfaces.

After caulking the reglet shall be made smooth by filling with elastic

cement.

■

Where indicated on the drawings or where directed by the architect cut
reglets in the masonry as located by sheet-metal contractor for the insertion

of flashings.

Reglets shall be not less than 1 inch wide and 1 inch deep,
shall be cut with true and straight edges, with sides and bottom roughened.

They

Flash all scuppers with copper, making same a part of the roof
flashing. Scupper flashings shall cover the interior completely and shall
extend through and project outside of the wall. Seams shall be locked,
or lapped, and soldered. Scupper flashings shall be joined to roof flash-
ings by soldered seams.

All enclosed roof surfaces, including balconies, etc., shall be provided
with scuppers. The bottom shall be not more than 2 inches aboze the finished
roof surface at the lowest point.

Where indicated on the drawings line all box or built-in gutters with
copper. Gutter-linings shall fit loosely and shall have the back edge 3
inches higher than the front edge. Back edges of linings shall lock to
copper roof covering and when used with slate, tile or shingles shall ex-
tend up the roof as far as possible without being punctured by the nailing
of the roof covering, and shall be secured with cleats.

(-A.) Small sheets shall be laid with seams staggered. All seams
shall be flat locked and soldered. Sheets shall be secured by cleats.

(-B.) Large sheets used to form gutter-linings shall be laid the long
•way of the gutter. The ends of the sheets shall be locked to cross strips
about 4 inches wide by flat or double-locked seams fastened by cleats.

Great care shall be exercised to avoid any sharp bends or creases in
the linings at the sides, and to this end sheets formed in the shop for
linings shall not be bent more than 90 degrees. In so far as is possible all
linings shall be formed on the job from flat sheets.

All gutter-linings over 24 inches wide shall have a longitudinal seam
running the length of the gutter of flat or double-locked type, soldered
and secured by cleats.

Linings shall be connected to flashings or to copper roofing by means
of large loose-locked seams, folded flat and so placed as to avoid any
possibility of leakage. In general the connection shall be made as close
to the intersection of the roof slope and the inside of the gutter as is
possible.

The back ed^e of all gutter-linings finishing against vertical walls shall
be carried 4 inches above the outside edge of the cornice and shall be
covered by cap flashings built into the wall.

(— 1.) Gutter-linings in wood cornices shall have the front ed^« s
turned under the lower edge of an y% by l)/£-inch brass strip screwed to
the vertical face of the top member of the cornice. This strip shall he
so placed as to form a proper drip.

(—2.) Glitter-linings set in stone cornicj shall be placid ovei a

wood sheathing forming the slope of the gutter. 1 he outer edge shall be

secured in a regh t. Whei < the wash slope slopes OUt, and where the H idth
ot the outer shl • t of the lining exceeds 20 inches, a Standing seam shall
be formed as close as is possible to the reglet to prevent dis( l< nation by

the wash from the gutter and to provide for expansion.

(—3.) Guttf r-limngs in concrete or brk work shall be secured
to batten or nailing trips set by other contractors according to din nons
by this contractor.

(—4.) Gutter-linings foimed back of copper ►rnicks shall ha^

the front edge locked to the top edge of the cornice over a ]/^ by 1*4"
inch brass strip.

69.

Built-in Gutters.
(Carpenters' Specifica-
tion.)

Built-in Gutters.
(Masons' Specification.)

71.

Outlets for Built-in
Gutters.

72. Cast Strainers

73. Roof Drains.

are

74.

Roof Drains and Gutter
Outlets.

(Plumber's Specifica-
tion.)

(— L) Form gutters as shown on the plans, and as directed by the
architect j of J/g-inch boards with nail heads set and all surfaces smooth.
Consult with the sheet-metal contractor on all details in connection with
his work.

(-2.) Set wood blocking and %-inch sheathing in masonry gutters as
shown on the plans and directed by the architect to form backing for lining
sloped to outlets. Make all surfaces smooth with nail heads set. Consult
with the sheet-metal contractor on all details in connection with his work.

Cut all reglets for gutter -linings as shown on plans or directed by the
architect. Set all batten and nailing strips in masonry necessary for the
sheet-metal work.

Form all depressions in masonry for outlet boxes as shown on the
plan

Form slopes to outlets in gutters and back of projections which
flashed.

All concrete surfaces to be covered with flashing shall be washed smooth
with neat cement. Where cinders have been used in the concrete it shall be
painted with two heavy coatings of asphalt paint.

Consult with the sheet-metal contractor on all details in connection
with his work.

Outlets shall be formed as shown on the drawings. The gutter
lining shall be turned into them and secured by soldered lap seams.

Holes shall be cut as soon as the lining is placed and temporary spouts
shall be put in until the permanent drainage is ready.

Outlets shall be connected to leaders by

(—A.) a 20-ounce copper tube;

(— B.) a 4-pound lead gooseneck.

Connections shall be flanged at the top and soldered to the outlet-
box lining; the bottom shall have soldered to it a brass ferrule or caulking
ring furnished by the plumbing contractor.

All outlets from gutters and roofs shall be provided with heavy, cast
brass, removable strainers the full size of the outlet-box.

(—A.) Approved types of patented roof drains may be used. They
shall be furnished and set by the plumbing contractor and connection
shall be made to them by the sheet-metal contractor in strict accordance
with the manufacturer's directions.

(— B.) Roof drains shall consist of a circular or square pan whose
diameter or side shall measure at least 4 inches greater than the outlet,
and have a depression of not less than \]/2 inches.

They shall have a flashing extending out on roof surfaces, on all
sides of the pan, not less than 6 inches. The flashing or pan shall be pro-
vided with a rib forming a gravel-stop or of proper height to receive (1)
built up (2) promenade-tile roofing.

(— C.) Roof drains shall consist of a copper flange extending out
on the roof on all sides a distance at least equal to the size of the outlet.
The flange shall be provided with a rib or gravel-stop against which to
finish (1) built up (2) promenade-tile roofing.

Outlets from drains shall consist of

(—A.) a 20-ounce copper tube, soldered to the (A) pan; (B) flange,
and (1) extending into the drain pipe at least 6 inches with the outside
coated with asphaltum; (2) with a brass ferrule or caulking ring soldered
to the end for connection to the drain pipe by the plumbing contractor.

(— B.) a 4-pound lead gooseneck, flanged at the top and soldered
to the (A) pan; (B) flange. Connections to the drain pipe shall be
made by the plumbing contractor.

(—1.) Furnish the sheet-metal contractor all brass ferrules necessary
for connecting the drainage system and the roof drains and outlets shown
on the plans, and connect copper tubes fitted with these ferrules to the drain
pipes by caulked and leaded joints.

(—2.) Furnish and install complete with all piping connections the
patent drains shown on the plans. Make provision, where necessary,
for the work of other trades in connecting to the drains.

{Continued on next page)

75. Expansion Joints

76.

Flashings for
Cornices*

Stone

77.

Flashings
Cotta.

for Terra

( § 74 continued)

(—3.) Where shown on the plans furnish and install 4-pound lead
goosenecks of a length necessary for the sheet-metal contractor to make
a proper connection to the outlet-box or roof drain, and with a brass ferrule
or caulking ring for connecting to the drain pipe.

(—1.) Roofs. Where an expansion joint in the roof slab is shown
on the drawings, this shall be flashed with a strip of 16-ounce copper bent
around a piece of No. 14 band iron about 6 inches wide heavily coated
with asphaltum. The flashing shall be set while the waterproofing is
being laid and shall be built into it. When the roof covering is placed
all the space around the flashing shall be filled with mastic or other
waterproofing-compound. The contractor may submit for approval
other methods of flashing expansion joints.

(—2.) Gutters. Where called for on the drawings provide sliding
expansion joints, the full height of the gutters. The lining of the gutters
shall be turned up and folded back to form flanges over which a cap shall
be placed to form a water-tight joint. There shall be sufficient play
between the cap and the flanges to allow for the full movement of the
gutter and the building. The cap shall have soldered on its outer edge
a V-shaped curb to turn water from the roof into the gutter.

All stone cornices, band-courses projecting more than 12 inches,
balconies, balustrades, etc., shall be flashed. Flashings shall be secured
on the outer edge by reglets. The back edge shall be continuous at least
3 inches above the outer edge and in no case less than 4 inches high.
Where stone facing on brick backing is used, cap flashings shall be set
in and shall cover the base flashings.

Where stone balustrades occur on top of a cornice, etc., flashings
shall be set in reglets under the balusters, or shall be continuous through
the balustrade and either turn down over the interior roof base flashings
as a cap flashing, or be connected thereto by a loose-locked joint. Dowels
for fastening balustrade members together shall penetrate the flashing
and shall be covered with a copper cap or thimble soldered to the flashing.

Flashings over 24 inches wide shall have a full-length longitudinal
seam secured by cleats, and shall have a standing seam as close to the
outside reglet as possible.

Where indicated on the drawings terra cotta shall be flashed to
make a water-tight job. The top surfaces of all projections such as the
washes of cornices, where the wash is formed of more than one piece,
shall be completely flashed, and where so shown on the drawings all single
deck projections shall be so flashed.

Flashings shall be secured to the outer edge of terra-cotta projections
by forming around a rolled nosing or bull-nose formed in the terra cotta,
or by brass screws set with lead sleeves into holes formed in the terra
cotta. The screws shall be set through washers and shall be soldered
to the sheet. The sheet so secured shall extend down below the edge of
the terra cotta not more than % of an inch to form a drip.

Cornices, band cornices, gutters, etc., formed in terra cotta, or
masonry faced with terra cotta, shall have a continuous flashing running
from the outside edge up to and behind the cap flashings.

Cap flashin > shall be built in behind the terra-cotta facing above all
cornices, etc. They shall extend up the wall at least one course of terra
cotta and shall lap the cornice flashing 4 inches. Where the design does
not permit a 4 inch lap of base and cap flashings the lap shall be soldered.

Balconies with balustrades shall have continuous flashings running
from under the door or window sills through the balustrades and to the
outside edge of the projection. Flashings shall be formed with flat-
locked or lapped seams well-soldered.

All flashings over 24 inches wide shall have a full-length longitudinal
flat or double-locked seam secured by cleats.

Around column bases, etc., flashings shall be turned up and into a
reglet formed in the terra cotta, or into the first joint of the terra-cotta
facing in such a manner as to make a water-stop.

78.

Terra Cotta.
(Manufacturers 1 Specifi-
cation.)

Flashings Between
and New Work.

Old

80. Skylights.

81. Louvres.

82. Cornices

Where rods, etc., necessary to support terra-cotta balustrades or
other architectural members, penetrate the flashings, the joint shall be
made water-tight as follows : The rods being in place, the flashing pieces
shall be marked, punctured and set in position by sliding down over the
rods; or, if this method is impracticable, the sheets may be slit to allow
them to be slid into place. The slit shall be made tight by soldering a
strip over it. Cups or thimbles, conforming roughly to shape of the
rod or bar shall be then placed over the rods and soldered to the sheet.
They shall be at least 1 inch larger all around than the rods. The cups
shall then be filled with mortar or an approved waterproofing-compound.

(-A.) Edges of all top pieces of projections to be flashed shall have
formed on the vertical face holes about 9 inches apart, Y% inch in diameter •,
and at least % inch deep, for fastening the flashings.

(-B.) All edges to receive flashings shall have a rounded nosing
around which the flashing sheet may be hooked and held firmly.

Where indicated on the drawings or directed by the architect, holes
shall be formed in the terra cotta for securing flashing cleats. They shall
be spaced about 12 inches.

Where new work is to be flashed against old work, such as at the
junction between an old and new building, the flashing shall be such as
to allow for settlement.

(— 1.) Where the new wall is higher, the top of the old wall shall
be covered with a flashing cap, extending completely over it and placed
before the new wall is brought up. The old work shall then be flashed
and counter-flashed to the new, the base flashing being turned down over
the old wall and locked to the cap, and the counter-flashing being built
in with the new work as specified elsewhere.

(-2.) Where the new wall is lower than an old wall, a flashing cap
shall be placed over the new wall and turned down on both sides. The
joint shall then be flashed and counter-flashed, the base flashing extending
down over new wall and locking to the cap. The counter-flashing shall
be set in a reglet cut for it in the old wall and caulked with lead wool.

(-3.) When the walls are level, the flashing shall consist of a cap
continuous over both walls, properly sloped to shed water, and secured
by brass wood-screws to the underside of a two-piece wood blocking
secured on top of the walls by others. The flashing shall be in two pieces
joined by a standing seam, or a loose-locked seam placed on one vertical
side of the blocking so as to prevent leakage and to allow for settlement.

Where shown on the drawings build skylights of size indicated and
of approved designed and manufacture, with curbs at least 10 inches
above the roof. All sheet metal shall be 16-ounce hard (cornice temper)
copper reinforced for strength and stiffness with steel sections. Copper
and steel shall be insulated by strips of 3-pound lead or by an asbestos
covering on the steel. All sash bars and bearings for glass shall have
condensation gutters leading to the outside of the skylight. All sky-
lights shall be made water- and weather-tight with joints interlocked,
riveted and soldered and shall conform to the requirements of the
National Board of Fire Underwriters. Duplicate sets of detail drawings
shall be submitted for approval.

Where shown on the drawings louvres shall be formed of
(-A.) copper,

(-B.) wood covered with copper.
Duplicate sets of detail drawings shall be submitted for approval.

Where shown on the drawings cornices shall be erected of 20-ounce
hard (cornice temper) copper. They shall be made in strict accordance
with the profiles shown on drawings with moldings true, sharp and
straight. All flat surfaces over 5 inches wide shall be crimped, all mitres

83.

Snow-Guards.
(Roofers' Specification.)

84. Ice-Box Drain-Pan

85. Saw-Tooth Roofs.

86. Cleaning Copper.

87. Coloring Copper.

ss . Painting Copper.

and joints carefully fitted, angles and corners reinforced, and all joints
neatly riveted and soldered together and made water-tight. Cornice work
shall be reinforced with properly-shaped steel brackets, separated from
the copper by 3-pound sheet lead.

The top edge shall be formed over a heavy brass or bronze edge-strip
or drip properly shaped to permit the joining of the top flashing or gutter-
lining as specified elsewhere.

Ornaments shall be stamped in soft (roofing temper) copper with
dies made from approved models.

Duplicate sets of detail drawings shall be submitted for approval.

(-1.) Furnish and erect on sloping roofs approved copper wire snow-
guards spaced not more than 18 inches apart in both directions and staggered.

(—2.) Furnish and set at eaves a snow-stop consisting of three }^-inch
bronze bars set in approved manner with bronze supports.

Form ice-box drain-pan 2 inches deep of 20-ounce hard (cornice
temper) copper with lap seams. The sides shall be stiffened by a roll at
the top. The pan shall be not less than 16 inches square and shall have
an l^-inch outlet. The outlet shall have a tube soldered to the pan of
sufficient length for connection to the waste line by the plumber.

Flashings for gutters in saw-tooth roof construction shall be carried
up the sloping roof at least one foot beyond the "line of minimum-
shadow," and shall be secured under the roof covering by cleats. Flash-
ings shall be laid with flat seams, except on the vertical side where the
flashings may be made with standing seams. Gutter-linings shall be
made continuous with and an integral part of window sill and side
flashings.

Gutter-linings over 18 inches wide shall have a full length longi-
tudinal flat double-locked seam in the center of the gutter.

(Under carpenters' specification provide for snow racks of boards to
prevent injury when gutters are cleared of snow.)

Except as otherwise specified all copper to be colored or painted
shall first be thoroughly cleaned by scrubbing with a strong solution of
caustic soda in hot water. After this solution has been applied the
copper shall be washed off with clean water.

(-1) Green Patina. After the copper has been scrubbed clean
the following solution shall be applied: (1) One pound of powdered sal
ammoniac to 5 gallons of water. Dissolve thoroughly and let stand 24
hours. Apply with a brush, covering every part. Let stand one day
and then sprinkle with clean water; or, (2), one-half pound of salt to
2 gallons of water. Apply as for (1) above.

(-2.) Brown or Bronze. Clean the copper of all foreign sub-
stain s and debris and rub it thoroughly with waste soaked in boiled
lins< d oil until the desired color is obtained. Touch up solder with
iper bronze.

All copper work to be painted shall first be scrubbed clean as specified
elsewhere and coated with a wash composed of copper sulphate, 4 ounces
to Yi gallon of lukewarm water, and }/ % ounce of commercial nitric acid.
This v. sh shall be applied with a brush, allowed to dry. The copper
shall then be dusted with a dry brush, and given one coat of red-lead-and-
oil paint and two coats white-lead-and-oil paint, composed of 15 pounds
of red lead to 1 gallon of raw linseed oil, with not more ihan V 2 pint of
oil drier All subsequent coats shall be composed of 15 pounds of white
lead to 1 gallon of raw linseeed oil with not more than 5 per cent of oil

drier and the necessary color to give the desired tint. All painting
materials shall be of the quality hereinafter specified under "Painting
and \ arnishing." Only those surfaces of copper work that will be ex-
posed after installation shall be painted.

PART TWO

Notes on Copper Flashing Practice

KEEPING BUILDINGS DRY

An Article on the Flashing of Terra Cotta

By Cecil Fidler, Engineer of Standards, Atlantic Terra Cotta Co.

There is no doubt that in the past the importance of flashing in building construction has not been
fully recognized. It has long been the custom to flash gutters and to use flashing at the junction of roofs
and parapets, but it is only recently that designers and owners of buildings have begun to realize the
necessity for flashing the entire upper and rear surfaces of exposed architectural features. It is now be-
coming evident that more attention must be paid to the protection of parapets and copings, the top of
cornices and the floors of balconies.

An extensive examination of buildings erected in the last thirty years shows conclusively that the
saturation of cornices and parapets is a very prevalent condition. In some cases the water enters at the
mortar joints in the top of the coping. In other cases rain beats in and soaks in at the joints in the back
of the parapet wall. Very frequently the mortar joints in the w 7 ash of the cornice are so cracked and
porous that a lot of the water that runs down the parapet or falls on the top of the cornice finds its way
into the interior of the wall.

Many architects and owners find that they have been placing too much reliance on the mortar
joints. Having procured weatherproof building materials, such as terra cotta or hard stone, and having
specified mortar of tested ingredients and approved mixture, they supposed that their buildings would be
water-tight when erected. They are now finding that a great many buildings are not water-tight and on
searching for the cause, they usually discover that the water is getting in at the mortar joints in the wash
of the cornice and parapet coping.

b At a first glance, it might appear that by carefully caulking or grouting the joints in the wash of
cornices, parapets and balconies, it should not be very difficult to make them water-tight, but the present
condition of a great many of these features proves that for one reason or another, water-tight joints are
not being obtained. The bad condition of the mortar joints may be attributed to a variety of reasons,
as for instance, poor workmanship, poor mortar, disintegration by frost, or cracking of joints due to ther-
mal expansion and uneven settlement.

Many kinds of elastic cement and various caulking compounds for the protection of mortar joints
are on the market and some of them remain impervious and somewhat elastic for several years but none
of them appears to retain its original qualities indefinitely. Protection by means of caulking compounds
involves periodical examination and considerable maintenance.

The results of poor joints are far reaching. The most common visible damage due to leaky joints in
washes is unsightly staining and streaking on the face of the architecture. This staining and streaking
is often extensive enough to destroy the beauty of a costly building. Frequently the streaks and dis-
colorations clearly indicate that soluble portions of the mortar are seeping out at the beds and joints and
are being deposited on the face of the building. Such a condition as this if allowed to continue will rap-
idly bring about the disintegration of portions of buildings on which it occurs.

Another serious result of leakage at joints is damage to plaster ceilings and walls within the building.
Cases have been known where water entering at leaky joints in the washes of cornices and parapets has
penetrated the walls to the depth of several stories below, causing considerable damage to the paint and
plaster on the inside of the walls.

A still more serious condition, worse because it is out of sight, is the effect of dampness on steel
framework within cornices, balconies and balustrades. The presence of moisture leads to rapid corrosion
of the steel members and may eventually render projecting features unsafe.

Architects and owners of buildings have also to consider the damage that is caused by the freezing
of water that collects in pockets and open spaces in the interior of walls and structural features. The
expansion of ice repeated through a number of winters may finally rupture the masonry.

As impervious joints are difficult to obtain and expensive to maintain and as neglected leaks result
in damage to valuable buildings it is advisable to cover wash surfaces with an impervious and permanent
covering. Sheet copper is believed to be the most suitable material for this purpose.

Flashings should be carried entirely over the top of cornices and in most cases should be turned down
over the nib far enough to form a drip and allow the water that runs down the wash to fall clear of the
moldings. In this way the face of cornices may be kept clean and free from stains of any kind. When
the top of a cornice is flashed, it is advisable to carry the flashing entirely through the base of the parapet
and connect it with the cap flashing at the back of the wall. In this way water which enters at the top
of the parapet is prevented from getting down behind the flashing at the back of the wall and is also pre-
vented from getting underneath the flashing on the top of the cornice. The backs of parapets should be
flashed whenever possible and the flashing should be carried over the top of the wall, laying it in the bed
joint immediately below the coping. Then, if there is any leakage at the joints in the wash of the coping,
the water cannot get behind the flashing, as it often does when the flashing is applied only to the back of

the wall.

The unsightly discoloration that is so much in evidence on the underside of balconies indicates the

necessity for better protection of these features. It is almost impossible to make the deck of a balcony
water-tight by means of a cement or tile finish. A covering of sheet metal should be used in all cases.
In flashing the tops of balcony slabs with sheet metal it is necessary to run the flashing out to the nib if
the best results are to be obtained. Quite frequently the floor of a balcony is properly flashed, but the
flashing terminates in reglets in the base of the balustrade. This practice almost invariably results in
the saturation of the balcony slab by water which finds its way in at the joints in the balustrade and runs
down behind and underneath the flashing. By carrying the flashing underneath the base course, any
water that enters at the joints of the balustrade cannot penetrate to the balcony slab, and the soffit of
the balcony is kept dry and unstained.

The washes of pediments and dormers should be completely flashed if staining and other evils of

saturation are to be avoided.

While the use of sheet metal for the protection of mortar joints in washes may entail some slight
additional expense at the time of the erection of the building, it will be found more economical in the end
because the cost of maintenance will be avoided. Moreover, a building that is properly protected at the
beginning will retain its original beauty and value.

FLASHINGS FOR TERRA COTTA

In general all built-in flashings should be fur-
nished b\ the sheet-metal contractor and should
be placed by the mason setting the terra cotta.
All built-in sheets should be shaped by the sheet-
metal man to confiim to the measurements fur-
nished by the mason, and sufficient metal left to
allow proper connection to the adjoining flashing.
In effei t tl m built-in flashin >, in the majority of

an miter-flashings.

1 he best method ot fastening flashin to the
blocks is that shown in Figure 63. Holes for
plugs about j of an inch in diametei are formed in
the terra cotta 8 or 9 inches apart. A small piece

t lead is rolled around a lar nail, thus form-
in i hollow cylinder. This cylinder is inserted in

the hole and a brass scr a is turned through the
per into it. The lead fills the hole completely

and makes a firm anchor for the screw

W >den plugs are not suitable, for in driving

them into the holes there is danger of splitting the

terra cotta and dampness is liable to cause them
to - II.

It will he not m a stud t the drawings.

I igui I to 66), that there is one principle that

entt s into the erection of terra cotta; that is, to
make as complete a cut otf as possible so that
moisture driving in through open joints, etc.,
cannot work its way into th< interior of the build-

ing. This idea should be borne in mind in design-
ing terra cotta construction and in providing
proper flashings.

Flashings for terra cotta should be as nearly
as possible continuous and should be so placed as
to provide a complete waterproofing of the
interior.

Balconies, balustrades, rails, copings, etc., re-
quire keying to hold them in place. This key or
dowel is shown in Figures 59, 61, 62, and 65. It is
not easy to get the flashing material over this if it
is made exactly to dimension as drawn. As it is
quite necessary that the copper be well fitted so
that the superimposed pieces shall have a good
bearing, it is suggested that the key be made
slightly rounded and be shaped with mortar to fit
the flashing strip as much as possible.

While it is general practice to make the fasten-
ings of terra cotta of iron and steel, the use of
brass and bronze for bars and anchors, and of
copper wire is increasing. After the erection of
terra cotta these members are concealed, inspec-
tion is impossible, joints open up, and dampness
enters and rusts iron and steel fastenings. For the
best work the hangers of all suspended terra cotta
hould be of non-ferrous metal, preferably bronz*
W hil this adds somewhat to the cost of first in-
stallation, it insures a permanent job, requiring no

further attention, because the elements will not
rust the bronze and damage the work.

Attention is called to the following paragraphs
from the Standard Specification for the Manu-
facture, Furnishing and Setting of Terra Cotta,
published by the National Terra Cotta Society,
September, 1923.

PREPARATION FOR FLASHING

14. — Where so shown the washes of all projecting
cornices and other exposed horizontal surfaces shall
have provision made for flashing. All surfaces
where the wash pitches inward toward the structure
and stops against superimposed work: all balcony
floors, and all gutter grades shall have provision made
for flashing.

15. — Raggles shall be provided to receive gutter
linings and flashings when the joints can not be used

for the purpose. Raggles shall be not less than %
inches deep.

SUGGESTIONS FOR COROLLARY CLAUSES

87. — In the case of parapet walls specifications
should state that flashing if used shall be carried
through the wall, or if flashing be not used the back of
the parapet wall shall be damp-proofed and the
water-proofing carried through the wall.

88-2. — In the specifications for sheet metal work
there should be included a clause similar in purport
to the following:

"The washes on all cornices and other exposed
surfaces, where shown or specified, shall be covered
with ( ) which shall be turned up against vertical
surfaces {cap flashed) and cemented into the raggles
provided for the purpose in the Terra Cotta"

FLASHINGS FOR STONE WORK

One of the chief considerations in using copper
with building stone is the avoidance of stains.
When copper is applied directly to light-colored
building stone or marble, sweating or condensation
on the underside sometime? causes discoloration.
To avoid this black waterproof paper (not tar felt)
should be laid underneath the copper, so as to
prevent direct contact between metal and stone.

It is also important to design the work so that
the wash from the metal does not flow down over
the face of the stone work. This, indeed, applies
to any type of roof, for the dirt which collects on
the roof will make any such wash objectionable.

This can be overcome by detailing the stone

work to drain inward except the small portion
beyond the outside reglet.

Good practice in stone work, with parapet and
other walls faced with stone, calls for reglets rather
than for step flashings in the joints. The reglet is
cut straight or at an angle across the stone as the
occasion may demand.

Many experienced stone setters consider lead
wedges and lime mortar the best method of filling
the reglet. The objection to this is the necessity
for frequent repointing. Lead wool or molten
lead do away with this objection.

Reference to Figs. 53 to 58 and to "Caulking,"
page 54, will make these points clear.

FLASHINGS FOR CLAY AND CONCRETE ROOF TILE

Roof tile are made of terra cotta and of concrete
in a variety of designs. Terra-cotta tile has been
in use for centuries. Recently concrete roof tile
similar to terra-cotta tile has been put on the
market with marked success. It is low in cost,
easy to apply and of pleasing appearance.

Tile roofs require special treatment at the
flashing points. Although the principles involved
are fundamentally the same as other roofing mate-
rials, because of the shape and design of the tile,
flashings for them must be of a special nature.
Flashings are generally made of larger sheets than
with ordinary roofing. This is because of the
necessity of covering the joints near the flashing
points and also conforming to the irregularity of
the construction.

The use of 18-ounce copper is recommended for
roof tile flashing. Its thickness helps materially
in keeping it in position over the tile by giving it
stiffness.

The principal considerations for flashings for
roof tile are:

1. To use sufficient copper to cover the joints
at the flashing points.

2. To apply the copper loosely and in such a
manner that the heavy tile will not hold it too
tightly or cut it.

3. To do as little fastening as is possible. The
sheets are held in place by the weight of the tile.

These points are clearly shown in the drawings,

Figs. 47 to 52.

COPPER OVER CONCRETE

When copper is used over concrete the surface
should be made smooth by a wash of neat cement.
Elastic cement is sometimes used for this purpose.

Cinder concrete should not be used in contact

with copper. Where copper is used in this type
of construction the concrete should be painted with
a heavy coating of asphalt paint before the copper
is applied.

FLASHING OLD AND NEW WORK

Where a new building adjoins an old one it is
necessary to flash properly the joint between the
two so as to prevent water running down between
them. The new wall may be higher, or lower,
than the old, or the walls may be even. Methods
of flashing will necessarily differ. It is necessary
to provide a water-stop and allow for the settle-
ment that is bound to occur.

A method of handling the three cases named is
described in paragraph 79, page 41, of the speci-
fications. The cap referred to in Alternate (-3)
is that shown in Figs. 67, 69, and 70.

When conditions different from these are en-
countered special methods of flashing must be
devised, keeping in mind the movement to be
expected after the flashing has been done.

WOOD SHEATHING

Wood sheathing is of great importance in
flashing work. Green or wet boards shrink and
warp and cause cracks and wrinkles in the metal
covering. The ideal sheathing is of kiln-dried
boards. These are, however, rather expensive.
Satisfactory results can be had with stock boards
provided allowance is made in laying for move-
ment. After laying sheathing should be pro-
tected against rain, and no metal should be laid

before the boards are thoroughly dried out.

Ship-lap is better than tongue-and-groove
boards. It is easier to lay and there is practically
no trouble from warping and swelling.

All boards should be well-nailed at every bear-
ing and separated slightly to allow for the swelling
that comes with dampness. All exposed nail
heads should be sunk.

BUILDING PAPER

Under all flashings, in built-in gutters, etc., use
building paper. Rosin-sized felt weighing about
6 pounds per 100 square feet is recommended. On
narrow flashings, it is not absolutely necessary.
Over rough surfaces, such as concrete, etc., it must
be used as a protection against abrasion. When
used with mason work, which is subject to dis-

coloration, a black waterproof-paper should be

used. (See page 45.)

For fireproof construction the National Board
of Fire Underwriters recommends an asbestos-felt
paper about one-sixteenth of an inch thick, weigh-
ing approximately fourteen pounds per hundred
square feet.

"SOFT" AND "HARD" COPPER FOR FLASHINGS AND GUTTERS

Copper sheets are made in varying degrees of
temper, or hardness. Experience has definitely
established the two which are best suited for
flashings and for gutters and leaders. The build-
ing profession has come to know these two as

"soft-" or "hot-rolled// and "hard-" or "cold-
rolled" copper, and it is common practice to so
designate the sheets in specifying or ordering.

It can be readily understood that because there
are different degrees of temper mistakes often
occur due to the confusion arising from ordering,
for instance, "16-ounce hard-rolled copper." The
question the manufacturer asks is "how hard"?
for the process of manufacture is dependent upon
the results desired.

Copper sheets are made from "cakes," w 7 hich,
after being heated to the required temperature, are
passed through rolls until the desired thickness of
sheet is obtained. The first part of the process
is the same for all tempers. When the copper has
cooled below a workable temperature, it is again
heated and roiled, this procedure being carried on
until the sheet is within a few gage numbers, or
thicknesses, of the finished product.

If the material is to be "soft-" or "hot-rolled' 1
it is again heated and rolled to the required thick-
ness, and then given a final heat or "anneal" to
remove the hardness acquired by rolling.

The hardness of sheets is determined by the
reduction in thickness before reheating. So, de-
pending upon the temper or degree of hardness
desired, the sheets are brought to certain thick-
nesses which will give the required final thickness
with the necessary rollings, are then heated to the
proper temperature, and are finally rolled to the
desired thickness — and hardness — and allowed to
cool.

From the above process it is obvious that unl
the temper, or hardness, is definitely specified, or
the purpose for which the sheet is to be used is
described, the manufacturer has not the informa-
tion necessary to supply the proper material. As
the result of the confused use of terms, sheets of a
hardness ill-adapted to the service desired have
sometimes been used, with disastrous effect.

As mentioned above there are two hardnesses
of copper which are adapted to use for roofing
purposes. The manufacturer knows from experi-
ence what these degrees of hardness are. They
are designated as "roofing temper" and "cornice
temper." The former is a "soft-" or "hot-rolled"
product, the later a "hard-" or "cold-rolled" one.

In order to prevent misunderstanding and con-
fusion, and to make as definite as possible the kind
of copper desired, it is recommended that the

trade and architectural profession adopt the follow-

ing terms:

Instead of

Soft
Soft
Hot

rolled
rolled

Use

Soft (Roofing Temper)
abbrev. (R. T.)

Hard

Hard-rolled
Cold-rolled

Hard (Cornice Temper)
abbrev. (C T.)

All flashings of whatever description should be
of soft (roofing temper) copper sheets. Such
copper is peculiarly suitable for this use for it is
easily worked and shaped and stands up well under
temperature stresses. There is no place in flashing
— or counter-flashing — where soft (R. T.) sheets
will not serve better than hard (C, T.) copper.
1 he latter, being comparatively hard, does not
lend itself so readily to shaping on the job. The
softer the copper the easier it is worked and shaped
and the more readily it adjusts itself to changes in
size caused by expansion and contraction.

For the opposite reason the material of all

shaped gutters, eaves trough, drips, water-bars,
leaders, cornices, etc., should be hard (cornice
temper) copper. Its stiffness is necessary to
maintain the shape, especially against ice and
snow loads. As most shapes are of mill-manu-
facture the process is such that the chance of
fracture at the bends is minimized.

In fact, all manufacturers of gutters, leaders,
etc., make them of hard (C. T.) copper, because
experiment and experience have proved their
practicability.

To this general rule there are two exceptions,
gutter-linings and cornice ornaments. These
should be of soft (R. T.) copper.

Gutter-linings in gutters of any length are
peculiarly subject to temperature stresses. The
continual warping to which the sheets are sub-
jected soon fatigues hard (C. T.) sheers, and cracks
develop at the bends. The use of a softer sheet
overcomes this cause of failure.

For ornaments which are stamped from dies
soft (R. T.) copper is superior to hard (C\ T. ),
for the former works more easily and is l< s liable
to fracture.

WEIGHT AND GAGE OF SHEET COPPER

Copper sheets are made in all weights and
gages up to one-quarter inch, thicknesses greater
than which are usually classed as plates or slabs.
It is generally defined by the ounce weight per
square foot; that is, "16-ounce copper" means
copper weighing 16 ounces or one pound per square
f oo t .

Experience has proven that 16-ounce copper
sheet is the ideal flashing weight. Under special
conditions, such as unusual exposures to wind or
snow, this weight may well be increased. Some
architects will specify nothing lighter than 18-
ounce material. On roofs with heavy tiles or
slates 20-ounce is advisable, for a lighter metal is
too easily cut by the heavy roofing.

Flashings lighter than 16-ounce are undesirable.
Sixteen-ounce copper is 0.0216 of an inch thick
14-ounce is less than 2/100s of an inch, and is
easily punctured by heels, etc.

All rain water carries with it off the roof dust
and grit particles, which have some wearing effect
on the gutter. It becomes wisdom to use metal
thick enough to do the work of leading off the
water for a period of time at least as long as the life
of the building. Sixteen-ounce copper will stand
up under these conditions; fourteen-ounce is too
light.

Built-in flashings of closed valleys, when the
flashing is itself protected by the roof covering,
might, with a light form of roofing, be of metal
lighter than 16-ounce, but as a matter of good prac-
tice it is recommended that nothing lighter than 16-
ounce be used for flashings, gutters and leaders.

TABLE I

Weighti of Sheet Copper in Pounds

Pi r Square Foot

Rolled Copper has specific ravity of One cubic foot of Copi CI

weighs 558.125 lbs.

T ck-

Thick-

Approx-

Weight

\\. ^ht

W eight

ness

imate

per

F.quiv.

Sq.

Pounds

Stubs*

Decimal

Thick-

Foot

of Sheet

■f Sheet

of Sheer

Wire

Parts of

ness in

14x48

24 | 48

50 i 60

48 i 72

Gage

an inch

Mm.

ounces

in.

1 16

in.

.00537

127

3 12

.00-06

203

1.75

4 (

.0107

254

2 33

6 25

.01! 1

356

2.91

7 81

.0161

406

3.50

9 37

.0188

157

4 08

10 93

.0215

508

4 66

12 50

0242

559

5.25

14 O.

.0269

711

20 J

5.83

15 62

.0322

0.813

18 75

.0430

1 067

9.33

.0538

1 245

11.66

31 25

.0645

1.651

37 5

.0754

1 829

16 33

43 75

.0860

2 108

18.66

.095

2 413

105

.109

2 769

40H

122

.120

3 048

44H

134

.134

3.404

100

150

.148

3 759

110

165

4 191

123

184

.180

4.572

134

105

201

.203

5 . 1 56

I 1S1

75 H

118

227

.220

5 588

1 *

128

246

.238

6.045

177

88 H

138

266

.259

6.579

193

151

289

.284

7 214

211

105H

165

317

.300

7 620

223

1114

174

335

-0

8.636

253

12 i

198

380

(Continued mxt page)

TABLE I (Continued)

Approximate Weight of Sheet Copper per Square Foot in

Fractional Parts of an Inch

■fe inch th

««

ck weighs 3 pounds to the square foot

ii r t( tt it (I

it -tj fi a it n

a 24. " M " **

4 . 46J^ " M "

To Ascertain the Weight of Copper. — Find the number of
cubic inches in the piece, multiply by 0.3214, and the product will be
the weight in pounds. Or, multiply the length and breadth (in feet)
and that by the pounds per square foot.

These weights are theoretically correct, but variations
must be expected in practice.

CRIMPED COPPER

The use of crimped copper is well-established,
and on the best work it is recommended.

Crimped sheets can be obtained from any of the
large mills by special arrangement. Many of the
larger roofing firms are also equipped to do this
work.

The crimps consist of 3/16 inch V-shaped cor-
rugations running cross-wise with the length of
the sheet.

Crimping is expensive. It reduces the size of
the sheet, and there is, of course, a charge for the
labor involved. The process tends to harden the

copper. The amount of hardening is, however,
not great.

Its chief advantage is in its behavior under

temperature changes. The crimps make splendid

expansion joints. For this reason its use in large
built-in gutters, where fastenings are difficult to
make and small sheets are inadvisable, is well
worth consideration.

Crimped copper is extensively used for cornice
work both for ornamental and practical reasons.
It gives a nice finish to the plane surfaces of the
cornice and the crimps allow opportunity for
expansion and contraction.

SIZE OF SHEETS FOR GUTTERS

Small sheets are generally used for lining gutters
and decks, pans, etc. Large sheets are more
difficult to handle than are small ones. Because
they are closer together and there is only a small
amount of cumulative expansion, the strain on
the seams and cleats is minimized by the use of the
small sizes.

When small sheets are used more seams and
more labor is necessary. This is the one objection
to their use. A method of strengthening the seams
of long sheets used in gutter-linings has been used
successfully. It is recommended for gutters gener-
ally, and particularly in masonry work where the
setting of wood nailing-pieces for small sheets means

a considerable expense. The ends of the long
sheet, which are laid the long way of the gutter, are
flat or double-locked to 4-inch strips laid across the
gutter. The two seams thus formed are fastened
with cleats to one nailing piece.

The length of any sheet or strip should not ex-
ceed 8 feet. The width depends upon the type of
flashing. In general, decks, crickets, and similar
large flat spaces on roofs are covered with small
sheets, about 18 inches by 24 inches, or 20 inches
by 30 inches. The size of sheets used in gutter-lin-
ings depends largely upon the design of the gutter*
There is no hard and fast rule.

BUILT-IN OR BOX GUTTER LININGS

For best results in gutter-linings the following
practice is recommended.

(1) The design of the gutter should avoid
sharp angles. The sides should slope as much as
possible to approximate an arc. The inside edge
of gutter should be at least 3 inches higher than the
outside edge. Gutters should be as shallow as
possible.

(2) The gutter should be wood-lined to receive
the copper.

(3) Sixteen-ounce soft (R. T.) copper sheets
which have been crimped are excellent. Their

length is optional up to 8 feet maximum; their
width should not exceed 36 inches.

(4) Longitudinal seams should be double-
locked. This provides strength at the seam and
with (3) allows plenty of opportunity for expansion.

(5) Seams should be well-soldered.

(6) The junction with the roof flashing should
be by a large loose-locked joint so placed as to need
no solder to make it water-tight.

(7) If long sheets are used a double-cross
seam should be used. The construction of this is
described above.

INNER-LININGS FOR MOLDED GUTTERS

In Ion

shown in

runs of molded gutters (such as is
ig. 93, page 63) it is sometimes neces-

sary to install false bottoms, or inner-linings, in
order to get the proper slope to the outlet. This

is done because the gutter itself must be hung
level and true to form the cornice. When such
inner-linings are used they are formed of not less
than 16-ounce copper to fit the contour of the
gutter and are set in place and soldered to the
sides to provide a sloping floor to the outlet.

Where possible, such construction is to be avoided
as it is expensive both from a material and labor
standpoint. It will generally be found more
economical to design the gutters with enough
outlets to make inner-linings unnecessary.

SIZES OF SEAMS

The development of a standing seam is shown
in Fig. 72. To form a standing seam the sheets
of copper are prepared by turning the edges of
the sheets at right angles, 1^ inches on one
edge and \]^ inches on the other edge. Then
(1), two sheets are placed together on the roof
with the l^£-inch face of one against the 1 3/2-
inch face of the other. (2) The projecting Y± inch

of the 1^-inch face is turned completely back
(180°) on the 1^-inch face of the other. (3) The
two sheets thus joined are then turned again 90°
and, (4) then again 90°, and the folds pressed
tightly together. The seam thus formed finishes
1 inch high. A ^-inch finished standing seam
is made by turning the edges 1, and 1)^, inches.

*«

;

I 1

Fig. 72. The Standing Seam

A double-lock flat seam or copper-lock is shown
in Fig. 73. To avoid confusion the cleats neces-
sary to hold the seams to the roofing are omitted.
The steps in forming this seam are as follows :
(1) Bend the edges of the sheets at right angles,
one edge V/i inches, the other 13^ inches. (2)
Place the sheets together, a l^-inch edge against

(3) Turn the lj^-inch edge

edge. (4) Turn

a lj^-inch edge.

180° down on the 1^-inch

The method of securing copper sheets by
cleats and a single-lock flat seam is shown in Fig.

74.

h-£-l

\-VH

Fig. 74. A Single-lock Flat Seam and Cleat

The steps in the process are as follows: (1)

Fig. 75 illustrates the lap seam. The edges of
the sheets are tinned UA inches, placed in position,
and soldered. Lap seams are often made less than
1 inch wide, and in places where there is little or no
strain on the seam, a H-inch lap may well prove
sufficient. All lap seams on flashings where there

both together again, in the same direction, another
180° and then, (5) turn both in the same direction
90° down on the roof sheet, mallet together and,,
on flat roof work, tip the outer edge with solder.

, ABOUT 2 INS

COPPER

SHEET

CLEAT

COPPER
SHEET

Fig, 73. A Double or Copper-lock seam

Tin the edges of the sheet. (2) Bend the edges of
the sheets at right angles. (3) Place the sheet
with the short bend on the roof. (4) Place the
cleat against the sheet and nail the cleat to the

roof and turn the end back over the nails.

(5)

turn
180*

Place the second sheet in position and, (6)
the edge of the second sheet and the cleat
down over the edge of first sheet. Then, (7) turn
all together 90° in the same direction down on the
first sheet, flatten and solder.

ABOUT I INCH

Fig. 75. A Lap Seam

is any likelihood of strain should not be less than
1 inch.

SEAMS IN CAP AND BASE FLASHINGS

Cap flashings against walls are usually made in
8-foot strips. The ends are lapped about 3 inches
to form a cross seam, no soldering being necessary.

1 he seams in base flashings are of the flat type
(see Fig. 74). 1 hey are about 8 feet apart, and
should be so spaced that they do not occur with the
seams in the cap flashing. The seams are made as

is usual in flat seam construction and should be
lapped in the direction of the flow so that no water
will enter them. 1 he ends of the sheets are tinned
and sweated full of solder.

The double or copper-lock is sometimes used in
this construction. (See Fig. 73).

SLOPES OF ROOFS

Roofs with a slope over 15° to the horizontal
are called steep roofs. This slope is about 1 on 4.
On such slopes, or steeper ones, no solder is neces-
sary in the joints and seams, as the locking and
flattening is water-tight.

Where there is a sudden change of slopes, as
occurs at the intersection of two planes, large sur-
faces of copper should be connected by a large,
free-moving locked joint, unsoldered.

LOOSE-LOCKED SEAMS

There are many places where it is necessary to
provide for expansion where usual methods do not
apply. Particularly is this so at the intersection of
different roof planes and at the top of built-in
gutters which connect with copper roofing. At
these locations the use of a large loose-locked seam
is recommended. This consists, practically, of a
standing seam bent flat, or a loose double lock.
It acts as an expansion joint and prevents creasing
and folding at the line of intersection. Of course,
care must be taken to place the lock, which is not
water-tight, so that it will not leak. It should

also be placed as close as possible to the line of
intersection.

The principle is the same as is used on decks,
such as is shown in Fig. 22. Here the seara is
left standing up. Were the slope of the roof
greater it would be turned down to form a "free-
locked" or "loose-locked" seam.

When used as shown it is held in place with a
cleat. In box-gutters where the roofing sheet is
secured on the roof no cleat is necessary. As such
a seam is not water-tight it must, of course, be
located above the outside edge of the gutter.

THE DOUBLE LOCK OR COPPER-LOCK

The double or copper-lock (Fig. 73) is made
by folding the joined sheets over twice, instead of
once, to form the seam. It has these advantages.

1. No soldering is necessary to make a water-
tight joint.

2. It allows ample provision for expansion.
An objection is that it uses more copper than

does the single lock, 2% inches being needed in-
stead of 1 ! .; inches. This amounts to about 7%

of a 24 by 30-inch sheet. However, this loss is

compensated bv the saving in soldering.

A second objection is that water is liable to

work its way under the unsoldered edge, freeze,
and open the seam. This can be overcome by
making seams with the slope and by tipping those
on flat surfaces with solder along the outer edge.
If properly malleted down this is unnecessary.

A third objection is that the number of folds,
21 in all, at the corner of a sheet staggered with
adjoining ones, make a hump in the seam. This
can be overcome by special notching, or by using
the single lock on one set of seams.

Its merits are such as to recommend it for all
work, and especially for large built-in gutters
where expansion is difficult to handle.

FASTENINGS FOR FLASHINGS

Fundamental in installing copper flashings are
proper fastenings.

A good rule to follow is:

I- All fastenings of copper must be of
copper or brass.

1 his rule applies not only to nails
gutters, hangers, brackets and braces,
screw rivets and washers.

W hen steel or iron either plain or galvanized)
is used with copper work a galvanic action takes

but to
and to

place between the copper and the other metal
which quickly destroys the latter
Two equally important rules are:

II. Never secure copper in any manner
which will prevent its free movement.

III. Fasten copper flashings over 12 inches
wide by cleats. Do not nail.

The greatest source of trouble from failure to
observe these two simple rules is in valley flashings.
These, by their very nature, are usually from 16

to 24 inches wide, and must be secured on both
sides. Fig. 6 shows a valley flashing. If the sheet
is 18 inches wide the lateral movement through
extreme temperature ranges is about 1/50 of an
inch. Where such movement occurs two things
may result. A nailed flashing tears at the nails
and becomes loose, or the sheet buckles along the
edge of the roofing material. As a result of the
first, water works under the loose flashing. With
the second, failure occurs by splitting or abrasion.
This trouble is avoided by securing flashings
with cleats. The cleats are nailed, it is true, but
Rule 11 is observed. The large sheet, not being
held fast anywhere, moves freely and the cleat
takes up the movement.

There are other methods of doing away with
this trouble, one of which is shown in Fig. 7. Here
the sheet has a l 4-inch fold under the roof covering.
This fold takes up any movement in the sheet.
However, it is open to this objection. In applying
the roof the fold is liable to become well-flattened,
so much so that the metal may receive a surface
crack. With subsequent movement — the result
of temperature changes — the cracks open and in
time the sheet may fail at the fold — just where the
water can get under the flashing.

If this construction is used care must be ob-
served during laying, to protect the told against
this creasing or flattening.

CLEATS

The cleat is shown in Fig. 76. It should be be about 3 inches for flat seams so as to allow

made of 16-ounce (R. T.) copper, not less than
1V£ inches wide, and should be fastened with
two copper nails. The end of the cleat should be
turned back over the nails so as to prevent the
nail heads from cutting the sheet.

Fig. 76. The Cleat

The length of the cleat is determined by the
kind of seam with which it is used. It should

the nails to be placed about 2 inches from the
seam. ■

r [ he maximum spacing of cleats should not
exceed 12 inches; a spacing of 8 inches is recom-
mended for the best work. This does not apply
to concealed valley flashings, etc., where the sheet
or strip is held in place by the roof covering.
Under these conditions the spacing may be con-
siderably increased. A maximum of 24 inches is
recommended.

In applying the cleat a copper sheet is placed
in position with a half inch I iul at right angles
to the root Then the chat-strip is set a unst it
with one inch of the tinned end bent at right angles

to the roof on which the other end rests, and with
the turned end of the cleat against the turned edge
of the sheet which h > also been tinned. I he next
step is to turn the tinned end of the cleat dow n and
over the edge of the sheet and then again turn
both down on the surface of the sheet. I hen the
cleat is nailed to the roof and the last half-inch of
the nail end of the cleat is turned back over the
nail heads. If the cleat also secures a second sheet
it is laid as described in Fig. 74, page 49.

nails •

There are some flashings which, of course, must
be nailed. Those around windows and doors,
gravel-stops, etc., are secured in this way. Figs.
8, 10 and 37 show these conditions. In every case
it will be noticed that Rule I (page 50), has been
observed. The flashing strip is only fastened
along one line. It is free to move toward and
away from the line of nailing. The longitudinal
movement is taken care of by placing the nails a
short distance apart and by the use of soft (R. T.)
copper. The movement during a temperature
change of 120° with a nail spacing as great as
12 inches would be only 12/1000, less than
1/64, of an inch; an amount easily taken care of
by the soft copper sheet.

It would seem that the use of copper nails with
copper sheets is so well-established as to be axio-
matic. Unfortunately this is not the case. The
danger of using iron or steel nails with copper can
not be over-emphasized.

The proper nails to use with flashings are large
flat-head wire nails. (Fig. 78.)

These differ from the ordinary wire nail in the
shape and size of the head. As can be seen from a
comparison of Figs. 77 and 78 the ordinary wire nail
has a ridge under a small head; this makes it im-
possible to drive the nail home without injuring
the sheet. The large flat-head wire nail is especi-
ally made for fastening copper sheets.

For all ordinary work No. 12 gage wire nails
are recommended.

Figs. 79 and 80 show cut nails of copper such
as are regularly used for roofing. The disadvan-
tages of these can be readily seen. The shank
tears the sheet and the head, if driven home,
makes a further tear, so that the sheet is badly
cracked about the nail-hole.

In exposed positions where wide flashings or
gutter-linings are subject to violent wind storms, or
in factories or mills where the wood sheathing is
likely to dry out quickly because of heat from the
interior of the building, heavy (10 gage) wire
nails, with barbs cut in them the full length of the
shank are recommended to hold the copper
securely in place.

Such nails can be furnished quickly by jobbers
or manufacturers. They carry an extra of approxi-
mately Y2 cent a pound over the usual list on kegs
of 100 pounds. Smaller quantities are furnished
by arrangement only.

Table II shows the sizes and list prices of
copper nails suitable for flashings.

Fig. 11 Fig. 78 Fig. 79 Fig. 80

Copper Wire Large Flat- Regular Cut Large Flat-
Nail. (Simi- Head Copper Copper Nails. Head Cut
lar to Steel Wire Nail. Copper Roof-

Wire Nails) (Slating and ing Nail

Shingle Nail)

[Note difference in head of ordinary wire nail
(Fig. 11) and large flat-head wire nail (Fig. 78)].

TABLE II

Extras Over Base Price

For
Large Flat-Head Copper Wire Nails

12
2c

278

IK
12

G-iee (Stubbs)

■^V 'V

^» ^^-

^^ ^^r ^m- -^r

^» ^^

^ ^^

Extra over base per lb. . . .
Approx. No. of nails per lb.

....

196

— B

231

ase
134

— | —

303

• ■ « •

210

These prices for kegs of 100 lbs. or over. Add the following
extras for less than 100 lb. lots.

75 lbs. to 100 lbs 2c. per lb

50 lbs. to 75 lbs 3c. " "

25 lbs. to 50 lbs 5c. " "

Less than 25 lbs 10c. " "

Brass nails are also used where a non-corroding
fastening is needed. They are particularly adapted
for slate and tile roofs where large cut nails are
necessary.

Brass nails are made only as cut nails in the
following sizes:

% inches

i
t

2 l /i inches
3

4^
5

sy 2

a
tc

a
a
a
a

They are somewhat cheaper and harder than
are copper nails of the same kind.

Fig. 81

Fig. 81 illustrates copper and brass tacks such
as are used for fastening canvas decks, etc.

TINNING

The edges of sheets to be soldered rrwst be
carefully tinned wide enough for proper solder-
ing. New block tin should be used and, if pos-
sible, the sheets should be dipped in the molten
tin in the shop rather than tinned with a soldering-
copper on the job.

The flux used should be the same as that used
for soldering. For tinning on the roof heavv
coppers are essential for satisfactory results.

Tinning can be done at the rolling mills.
Where it is possible to estimate in advance the
amount of tinning necessary it is often advan-
tageous to have the work so done. It insures good
results and an even distribution of tin.

It is difficult to determine in advance the
quantity of tinned sheet necessary for a job, and
there is, accordingly, the uncertainty of ordering
too much or too little.

FLUX

^ The use of killed acid as a flux is universal and,
in'the majority of cases, successful. Neverthel s,
its use should be avoided as the chances of injury
to the sheets are great. Acid flux of an improper
kind will do irreparable damage to the finest
workmanship.

It is harmless
It takes

Rosin is recommended as a flux.
to the metal and makes good seams,
more labor but it is safe. There are some objec-
tions to its use, such as sloping roofs and windy
days. I nder these conditions it is much easier to
use killed acid for it will not blow away and it

will stay on the slope. But it will run down a slope
and it will spatter on windy days. Rosin can be
kept in place by "burning" it on with a small
soldering copper just hot enough to melt the
rosin. Powdered rosin in gasolene is recom-
mended.

The proper preparation of acid for use as a flux
is of the greatest importance. It is not a job to be
entrusted to a novice. The acid used is hydro-

chloric (or muriatic). Pieces of zinc are put in the
quantity to be used until it stops working; then
it is properly killed. If the killing is done hastily
or by anyone not familiar with the procedure, the
acid is used in a still active state and attacks the
copper. Pitting ensues and the work is spoiled.
The acid to be used for an entire job should be
prepared several days before the work starts and
allowed to stand.

SOLDER AND SOLDERING

The only solder which should be used is the
best "half-and-half obtainable. It must be com-
posed of new tin and new lead.

The weakness of any composite structure, be
it steel bridge or copper roof, is in the joints.
These must be made tight and strong. The best
way to make them strong is to use wide, well-
sweated seams. Excellent results have been ob-

tained with seams two inches wide; that is, with
the solder flowed over that much. A good full
inch is none too wide. Lots of solder, well-flowed
over, is the secret of strong seams.

Soldering should be done slowly with thor-
oughly heated coppers, so as to heat the whole
seam uniformly and to insure the complete- amal-
gamation of the tin and the solder.

SOLDERING-COPPERS

Proper soldering-coppers are most important
in making tight seams. As sheet copper absorbs
heat rapidly tight coppers are of no use. They
do not hold the heat nor soak the solder into the

seam.

Soldering-coppers should be of heavy, blunt-
end type, for these hold the heat and spread the
solder. They should he moved slowly over the
seam so as to thoroughly heat the copper sheets
and amalgamate the tin and the soldi r soaked int
the seam.

The same flux should be used in loldering a
is used in tinning the edges. Coppers should Im-

properly tinned before use, and, of coi . care

mu^r be used in heating to avoid burning either

the tinning or the copper. Coppen must be hot

through an I through but not overln.ii 1.

For upright seams pointed soldering-coppers
should not be used because there is not sufficient
heat in the point to heat the shirt and spi id

the solder. For these a flat chisel-point pattern,
weighing not less than 6 pounds to the pair, should
be used. For flat seams use a blunt s«|uare-end
type of ( pper weighing not less than 10 pound
the pair.

WHITE LEAD

White lead in oil is a good substance for filling
lock seams in copper work. It is simple to appl
is watertight, and remains so a long time. W hite

lead has been used on copper roofs, laid many j ears

ago, both in this country and abroad. Notable

among roofs of this tvpe is th.it on the State House
in Boston, Mass. This roof was laid in 1 87-9
with leaded seams, and is apparentlv as tight

today as it was thirty-five yean ago.

The method of applying consists of smearing

rhe edj of the she* plentifully with hite
lead in oil and folding and king rheni to form
lock seams in the usual way. 1 he VISCOUS lead
and oil compl tely h I Is the lock making a water
stop.

White lead used in this \ hi mm h to recom-
mend it. It is iheaper than soldering, and lr i,
durable. < >n Hat roots where water hacks up it
is perhaps better to use solder, hut on free-draining

surfaces white lead can be used with every assur-
ance of satisfaction.

EDGE ON EXPOSED FLASHINGS

It will be noted on the drawing! that all ex-
posed and unfastened flashings have the edge of
the strip turned over inch. This U done to give
the strip stiffness against wind. Thus the sheet is

held in place and the packing in of snow under the
flashing is prevented. It is a practice that should
be axiomatic wit! flashing.

BENDS IN COPPER

At all changes of direction or of the planes of
roofs, such as where the roof of a dormer meets the
main roof or the bottom of a built-in gutter turns up
to meet the sides, special precaution must be taken
to avoid breaks and cracks. Where copper sheets
are confined in sharp angles there is a restraint
of free movement and the copper warps and
buckles. The sheet loses its ductility and in time
fracture results. In fact a sharp bend in copper
sheets is as bad as nailing for it stops the free"flow-
ing" of the sheet and provides a place for a buckle
to start.

This can be done away with by using small tri-
angular blocks in corners and working the sheet
over them in a gradual or easement curve.

Such construction makes it difficult for the
roofer to make up the seams, for where the sheet is
bent at an angle of less than 90 degrees it is neces-
sary to notch out the seam, with the result that
there is not a full seam with four thicknesses of
copper (for flat seam construction) at the bend
where the notch is made. This is not serious and
can be overcome by careful soldering.

If the triangular blocks are not used, great care

must be taken to avoid a crease in the copper at

the bend. If the sheet is folded over on itself and

then opened up — that is, if it is bent more than 90

degrees — a crease will form, which acts, under

temperature change, as a hinge and ultimately
cracks.

DRIPS, EDGE-, AND EAVE-STRIPS

At the outer edge of cornices and similar pro-
jections it is good practice to secure the flashings
as illustrated in Figs. 12, 17, 18, etc., by means of
edge-strips or drips. The two terms are used inter-
changeably to describe either the methods there
shown or those in Fig. 82.

FLASHING

:q secuqld /

TO WOODWORK h>

LlTHLHATA'OR'B"^"-

BMSS LOQL STRIP

8WS SC OUT;

Fig. 82. Drips

Drips. A drip, when not formed by an edge-
strip consists of a piece of copper (at least 18-

ounce, preferably 24-ounce), nailed to the top of

the sheathing or to the face of the molding locked
to the flashing sheet as shown. It acts both as a
fastening and a drip and is satisfactory for all pur-
poses for which the heavier edge-strip need not
be used.

Edge-Strips,

of brass about

An edge-strip consists of a piece
of an inch thick by 1 l /i inches
wide screwed to the supporting face by brass
screws and placed so that the sheet can be hooked
under it about 3/£ of an inch to form a lock. In
most instances it is placed so as to project slightly
below the sheathing or the upper fillet of the
molding to form a drip. This form of construc-
tion is used where a stiff fastening and a straight
true edge is needed. This type of edge-strip is
used with large molded gutters and cornices of
copper to provide the necessary strength and stiff-
ness to the outer edge.

Eaves-Strips. When eaves and roof edges are
finished with an ornamental molding which requires
protection against water from the roof an eave-
stnp is sometimes used. It is made as described
in paragraph 53, page 36, of the specifications.

CAULKING

The materials used for caulking joints around
pipes and n lets in masonry work are elastic
cement, sulphur and lead. The last named is the
most satisfactory in every respect. It completely
fills rhe space, holds the copper, does not disin-
tegrate, adjusts itself to temperature changes.

On perpi ndicular surfaces, etc., where the pour-
ing of molten lead is difficult, lead wool is used.

It must be well caulked, and the joint completely
filled. Molten lead should also be well caulked
to insure a solidly-filled joint.

After caulking the reglets are sometimes
smoothed and made flush with the adjoining
masonry by filling them with elastic cement. This
gives a neat appearance to the finished work.

EXPANSION AND CONTRACTION

The confusion that seems to exist regarding the
expansion and contraction of copper — or, for that
matter, any similar live metal — has brought about
an unfavorable attitude in the minds of many
people.

While no attempt is here made to belittle the
importance of this feature of copper work the
majority of failures attributed to expansion and
contraction are actually the result of improper in-
stallation and failure to observe Rule I (page 50).

Copper must be considered as a "live" metal;
i.e., one which not only moves under temperature
variations, but also has a large amount of ductility
and tenacity. It is this characteristic which
allows the metal to "flow" while adjusting itself to
temperature stresses, and prevents the occurrence
of internal strains which result in failure. Too
much emphasis can not be laid on this feature.
Careful planning for it when applying flashings of
copper means a satisfactory job.

A strip of copper measuring 1 inch at 60° F.
when cooled to 0°F will contract in length an
amount equal to L x 60 x .0000095, or 0.00057
inches, and the length of the strip will become
0.99943 inches. If the temperature is increased
from 60°F to 120° the length will become 1.00057
inches. Assume that the copper strip is held
securely to its original length. The modulus of
elasticity of annealed copper is 18,300,000. The
stress in the strip due to a change in temperature of

60° may be computed as follows. F = ExN,

where E is the modulus of elasticity and N is the

linear change. 18,300,000 x .00057^ = 10,431

pounds per square inch. As the breaking strength
of annealed copper is 36,000 pounds per square
inch and the yield point somewhere in the neigh-
borhood of 20,000 pounds, it is evident that in a
range of 120° F change in temperature (from 60°
down to 0° and up to 120°) the factor of safety
varies from 2 to 3j^.

Were all copper applied at a temperature not
greater than 100°F there could be no failure

directly due to expansion and contraction, for the
elastic limit and the breaking strength would never
be exceeded (in a range to— 20°), and there would
be no stretching of the copper.

Sometimes, undoubtedly, the temperature of
the sheets at the time of laying is slightly greater
than 100°, and the temperature range on roofs is
large, measuring in one instance 170°, from — 20° to
150° above zero.

However, even under these extremes, copper
does not fail, because it is not stressed to the break-
ing point. All building materials expand and con-
tract, and the change in length of any one is rela-
tive to others to which it is attached. The co-
efficient of expansion of concrete is 0.00000795.
copper laid in a concrete gutter has a coefficient,

therefore, of .0000095 -.00000795, or 0.00000155,

and the stress in copper laid at a temperature of
100° is, at — 20°, only about 3,400 pounds per square
inch, giving a safety factor of from six to ten.
When laid on wood, which has a small coefficient,
the stress on copper is within the bounds of safety.
If the stresses due to expansion and contrac-
tion alone are considered it must be apparent that
the failure of copper due to temperature changes
alone is an extremely rare occurrence. When,
however, a sheet is partially constrained, and a
point is provided where the cumulative movement
due to temperature changes can create a hinge
action, fatigue will eventually destroy the ductility
of any metal and fracture will ensue.

EXPANSION JOINTS

Large steel-framed structures are usually built
with expansion joints to allow for movement in the
frame. Where copper-lined gutters or cornices,
etc., are used with this type of structure it is neces-
sary to provide expansion joints at the points
where they occur in the building.

These are built in the usual manner, as is shown
in Fig. 83. The gutter-linings are turned up normal
to and slightly higher than the depth of the gutter,
the ends are bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the
vertical, and a cap is locked over the top. The
joint is designed to allow a small space (say J/£
inch) between the vertical sides when fully ex-
panded, and the length of the flanges and width of
the cap is calculated to take care of the full con-
traction of the metal.

This type of expansion joint is sometimes used
in large built-in gutters to provide for movement
in the copper. These are spaced from 25 to 50
feet apart, and are claimed by their exponents
to be the only solution of the "built-in-gutter"

problem.

It is doubtful if these claims are substantiated.
When copper is locked to the roof covering and to
a cornice-strip in such manner as to provide a
water-tight joint it is extremely doubtful if the

Fig. 83. An Expansion Joint

force of expansion and contraction will overcome
the frictional resistance of the locks in such manner
that the whole amount of movement will evidence
itself at the expansion joint. A 50-foot stretch of
gutter would move nearly % of an inch during
normal seasonal variation of temperature. This
represents a change in length of 1/64 of an inch
per foot, an amount which is easily taken care of
at the seams of the individual sheets.

Especially is this true when one considers
that this expansion is relative to the supporting
structure, (as discussed elsewhere), and that the
actual change in dimension per foot is seldom more
than 1/200 of an inch.

Expansion joints are of no use when a gutter is
built as in Figs, 53 and 54, where it is necessary to
use a reglet to prevent leakage. Where this can

be done away with, and the gutter-lining can be
locked to the roof and cornice, an expansion joint
can be used with some degree of success.

SCUPPERS

One of the most important points of roof
drainage design is often forgotten. This is proper
provision for overflow by means of scuppers,

A great many buildings have flat roofs enclosed
by parapet-walls and inside drainage-systems.
When the outlet becomes clogged water collects
on the roof and not only causes an overload, but
also works its way over the flashing and down into
the building. The appearance of leaks of this
character is often the first warning of the dan-
gerous condition of the roof.

On all roofs of this character — that is, where
there is not ample provision for escape of the water
when the leaders do not work, it is absolutely

necessary to provide scuppers through the wall.
These should be large enough to preclude any pos-
sibility of clogging (at least 4* x 12"), and should
be unobstructed in any way by screens, etc.
For a further description, see Figs. 36 and 58.

When copper flashings are used the scuppers
are completely lined with copper and this lining is
soldered to the base flashing, the counter-flashing
being worked around the hole, or omitted at this
point.

Scuppers must also be used to drain all bal-
conies or similar small areas enclosed by a balus-
trade or wall.

EROSION

In some localities it is general practice to omit
gutters from small flat roof dormers, or similar
construction, and allow the water from the dormer
to fall to the roof below. When the roof surface
receiving the falling water is flat, or nearly so, the
force of the descending water is often great enough
to driveit under the roof covering. A special
flashing is sometimes used to overcome this diffi-
culty. Such practice is not good as the wearing

effect of the water erodes the metal. When this is
galvanized iron or tin corrosion destroys the iron
base as soon as the thin protective coat of zinc or
tin is worn away. Sixteen-ounce copper sub-
jected to this erosion has withstood it for sixteen
years before failure. Gutters and leaders should
be used whenever water from one roof discharges
on another roof below.

COPPER AND OTHER METALS

Dissimilar metals, when in contact in the pre-
sence of an electrolyte, set up galvanic action which
results in the deterioration of the most electro-
positive metal. Starting with the most electro-
positive the commercial metals are listed as follows :

1. Aluminum (most

Electro-positive)

2. Zinc

3. Steel

4. Iron

5. Nickel

6. Tin

7. Lead

8. Copper (most

Electro-negative)

This means that when iron (or steel) and cop-
per are in contact with an electrolyte present
(which may be water) the iron is corroded. When
copper and lead or tin are in contact a tendency

for similar action exists but it is very slight and
produces practically no injurious results. This is
because the difference in potential is much less and
the corrosive action is negligible, especially where
water is the electrolyte.

Any possibility of galvanic action between cop-
per and iron or steel should be carefully avoided
by proper insulation. This insulation is effected
in various ways, three of which are, (1) covering the
steel member with asbestos, as is frequently done
in skylight construction; (2) placing strips of sheet
lead between the two metals, as when new copper
gutters are placed in old iron hangers; and, (3)
heavily tinning the iron, as is often done with iron
or steel gutter and leader supports.

PART THREE

Supplementary Data

COLORING COPPER

Copper may be given different finishes by the
use of various chemicals. The most commonly
known and used of these are set forth below.

The Research Staff of the Copper and Brass
Research Association will be glad to advise those
who desire special finishes.

1. Bronze or Brown.

Clean off all dirt and traces of acid or other
flux carefully. Give the cleaned copper a thorough
coating of boiled linseed oil. Touch up the seams
with copper bronze.

This can be applied with a mop or brush or
with rags. This treatment makes the copper
turn a dark brown color somewhat similar to
old bronze.

How long this color will last, especially near
salt air, is problematical. There are examples of
it six or more years old. It is best to renew the
treatment every two or three years unless the
atmosphere is generally clear and dry. By this
means it is possible, after a few treatments, to
retain the color permanently.

A more elaborate method is:

Clean the copper thoroughly with a strong
soda solution (4 to 6 ounces per gallon of hot water)
or with fine pumice and kerosene and then wipe
it off with gasoline.

Apply with a brush a solution of 1 oz. of liver

of sulphur in one gallon of lukewarm water.

After the desired color has been obtained wash
the solution off with water.

The above formula should be first tried out
on a small piece of copper. If the color obtained
the first time is not satisfactory it may be advisable
to give a second coating of the solution.

2. Green: Verdigris; Copper Patina.

Clean the copper thoroughly with a strong
solution (4 to 6 ounces per gallon) of soda in
hot water. Wash this off with clean hot water.

Apply with a brush a solution of }/i lb. of salt
to 2 gals, of hot water. Let stand for one day
and then sprinkle the surface with clean water.

It is absolutely necessary for good results that
all the grease and oil of the manufacturing process
be removed from the copper. The strong soda
solution will do this. Uniform finish will not be
obtained unless the copper is thoroughly cleaned.

Copper left to the action of the atmosphere
will eventually turn green, the color of copper
carbonate. It first darkens, then becomes a dull
black (the oxide); finally the oxide changes to the
carbonate which is the well-known patina of
copper. This carbonate is a protective coating
and should not be removed.

PAINTING COPPER

It is difficult to obtain a good bond between
paint and copper. This is due to the grease and
oil of the manufacturing process which is rolled
into the fine pores in the surface of the sheets.

Paint applied directly to untreated copper
will not stand for any length of time, particularly
when exposed to the weather. The surface must
be thoroughly cleaned and roughened before the
paint will adhere.

This may be accomplished by washing the
copper with a solution of 4 ozs. of copper sulphate
in one-half gallon of iuke warm water in a glass
or earthern vessel, to which is added one-eighth
ounce of nitric acid. If the surface is still very

smooth, additional roughening must be done by
abrasives.

Before painting, the surface must be carefully
washed with clean water to remove the last trace
of the solution and the paint must not be applied
until the surface is thoroughly dry.

Three coats of paint will give the best results.
The first coat should be composed of 15 pounds
of red lead to one gallon of raw linseed oil with
not more than Yi pint of oil dryer. The last two
coats 'should be composed of 15 pounds of white
lead to 1 gallon of raw linseed oil with not
more than 5 per cent, of oil dryer and the necessary
color.

PROPORTIONING GUTTERS AND LEADERS

The chief consideration in designing gutters
and leaders is to conduct the water running off
a roof quickly and easily aw T ay. To do this it is
essential that, (1) the gutter be large enough to

conduct all the water to the outlet; (2) the outlet
be large enough to accelerate the velocity of the
water in the gutter when it enters the outlet.
It is obvious that more water will drop through

a vertical pipe than will flow in a horizontal trough
of equal area. Therefore it might appear that the
leader could well be much smaller than the gutter
and take care of all the water flowing into a gutter.
The problem would resolve itself into one of
hydraulics were it not for practical considerations.

It is also good practice to make the leader the
same size in its descending length as at the outlet,
so that there may be no stoppage due to leaves or
ice. These factors enter so acutely into the design
that the problem becomes one more practical than
hydraulic, although the principles of hydraulics
enter into it.

Practice for leader sizes varies with different
authorities from 75 to 250 square feet of roof sur-
face to each square inch of leader cross section.
This variation is due, in part, to varying conditions
of rainfall in different parts of the country. The
maximum rate varies from 4.5 to 8.7 inches per
hour. In short periods during thunder showers
even heavier falls have been recorded.

It seems reasonable to base computations on a
rate of 8 inches per hour. At this rate of fall the
water to be handled for 1,000 square feet of roof
surface is 666.7 cubic feet per hour, or 0.185
cubic feet per second, or 83 gallons per minute.

Gutters and leaders large enough to carry
away this amount of water will insure a satis-
factory system.

The first step in designing such a system is
location of the leaders. Seventy-five feet is the
maximum spacing recommended. This done, the
area drained per leader is computed and the area
of the leaders determined. A safe rule is 150
sq. ft. of roof area to 1 sq. in. of leader area.

An application of this rule gives the following
tabulation:

Area in
sq. in.

Leader

size

Sq.ft.

roof area

drained

Plain
Round

7.07
12.57
19.63

28.27

5.94
11.04

17.72
25.97

1060

1885
2945
4240

Corrugated
Round

4'
5'
6'

890
1660
2660
3895

Polygon
Octagonal

6.36
11.30

17.65

25.40

3'
4'
5'
6'

955
1695

2650
3810

Square

Corrugated

3.80

7.73

11.70

18.75

l3/ 4 '*2l/ 4 '(2')
2%' . 3>/ 4 ' (3')
2V 4 '.4'/ 4 '(4')

33/ 4 ' , 5' (5')

570

1160

1755
2820

Plain
Rectangular

3.94

6.00

8.00

12.00

20.00

24.00

13/ 4 ',2V 4 '
2' x3'

2' x4'

3' i4'

4' x 5'

4* x6'

590

900

1200

1800

3000
3600

The above figures can be reduced or increased
to meet local conditions where the intensity of
rainfall is definitely known.

There are practical considerations to the prob-
lem. No leader should be less than 3 inches where
there is a possibility of leaves, etc., passing into it.
Two-inch leaders are often used for porches and
decks, and are permissible if precaution is taken
to safeguard the gutter outlet against stoppage.

The size of gutters depends upon

1. The number and spacing of the outlets.
The gutter acts as a reservoir or collecting
channel which holds the water and carries
it to the outlet. The slope of the gutter
determines the flow toward the outlets.

2. The slope of the roof.

A steep roof carries the water to the gutter
faster than a flat one does.

3. The style of gutter used.

Some gutters are not effective for their full
depth and width. In proportioning gutters
proper consideration of the available area is
essential.

The best type of gutter has the minimum
depth equal to half and the maximum depth not
exceeding three-quarters the width. Thus the
width becomes the deciding factor in proportion-
ing its size. There is no reason for a gutter deeper
than three-quarters of the width except for orna-
mental purposes.

Assuming that this proportion is observed the
gutter may be referred to by its width only.

A gutter smaller than four inches wide is to
be avoided. In common practice 4-inch gutters are
seldom used for they are difficult to solder and in-
crease the labor cost. The gutter may be the same
size as the leader it serves, but, of course, can not be
smaller.

Half-round gutters are most economical in
material and insure a proper proportioning of
width and depth.

Safe rules for determining the size of gutters
are:

1. If spacing of leaders is 50 feet or less, use a
gutter the same size as the leader, but not less
than 4-inch.

2. If spacing of leaders is more than 50 feet,
add 1 inch to the leader diameter for every 20 feet
(or fraction) additional spacing on peaked roofs.

3. For flat roofs add 1 inch to the leader size
for every 30 additional feet of gutter length.

Examples:

1. A 40-foot gutter serves a 3-inch leader.
The gutter should be 4-inch.

2. A 75-foot gutter serves a 4-inch leader on a
steep roof. The gutter size is 6-inch.

3. A 75-foot gutter serves a 4-inch leader on a
flat roof. The gutter size is 5-inch.

For ordinary residence construction 3 or 4-inch
round and 2' x 3* or V x 4* rectangular leaders will
generally suffice. Five-inch half round gutters
meet practically every requirement.

In large building design, such as factories and
offices, careful attention should be given to the de-
sign of the roof drainage-system.

A safe system to follow in mill building design
is that of the American Bridge Company. Their
specifications provide as follows:

Span of Roof Gutters Leaders

Up to SO feet 6 inches 4 inch every 40 feet

50 to 70 feet 7 inches 5 inch every 40 feet

70 to 100 feet 8 inches 5 inch every 40 feet

Hanging gutters shall slope 1 inch in every

sixteen feet.

Progressive Steps in Designing Gutters

and Leaders:

1. Locate position of leaders.

2. Compute area of roof drained by each
leader.

3. Compute size of leader by dividing roof
area by ISO.

4. Compute
leaders.

size of gutters to supply

Notes

1. Round leaders should not be less than
3 inches in diameter.

2. Rectangular leaders should not be
smaller than l%" x 2}^" '. (This is commonly
called "2" square inches).

3. Gutters should not be less than 4 inches
wide.

4. Gutters should have a fall of not less
than 1 inch in 16 feet.

5. Scuppers should be provided for all
roofs with a parapet wall built around them.
This precaution prevents an overloading of the
roof due to stoppage of the outlet.

6. All outlets should be provided with
screens or strainers.

PRICE ESTIMATES

[This Association, being engaged solely in research and educational work,
and being in no sense a selling organization, does not quote prices.]

In the tables and text of this handbook, where
a base price, or list price, is set out, this price is
derived from an average selling price for copper
and cost of manufacture and distribution. Mar-
ket conditions raising or lowering the selling price
of copper, or affecting to a very appreciable extent
the cost of manufacture, would raise or lower
this price. The tables of extras are derived from
printed lists in public use at the time of publica-
tion.

In using this handbook for the purposes of esti-

mating, the base price, list price, table of extras
and discount on extras, at the time of estimate,
should be obtained, so far as necessary, from a
reliable manufacturer or dealer. Any unusual
variations from the method of computation set
forth herein should be investigated by the person
making the estimate.

In using the tables of list prices it should be
borne in mind that these prices are subject to
discount. When making up cost data the market
discounts from list should be obtained.

ESTIMATING THE COST OF COPPER SHEETS

The difference in the cost of copper sheets is
determined by (1) the thickness, (2) width, and (3)
length. Sheets can be obtained of any desired
dimension as shown in Table III. Table IV gives
the extras added to the prices in Table III for
various items such as tinning and polishing. It
will be noted that hard (C. T.) sheets carry an

extra.

Examples of the method of computing follow:

L What is the price of 16 oz. soft (R.T.)

sheet copper 30* x 96* ?

The base price of soft (R. T.) Copper
sheet is assumed at 23^ cents per lb. and
there is a 10% discount on extras.
From Table III the extra for sheet over
28" to and including 36" in width and over
72" to 96" in length is 2^ cents per lb.
Deducting 10% makes this figure 2.25
cents. Adding to the base we get
Base. . .23.75 cents

The extra for 18 oz. soft (R.T.) sheet
14" x 20", is 2.5 cents per lb. (Table III.)
The extra for hard (C. T.) sheets is 3.0
cents per lb. (Table IV.) For tinning
hard (C. T.) sheets there is an additional
extra of ]/y cent per lb. (Table IV.)

2.5
3.0
0.

cents

Less 10% discount

Net extras

6.0 cents
0.6

5.4 cents per lb

Extras* . 2.25

II.

Total... 26 cents per lb, (or sq. ft.)

What is the price per sheet of hard (C .T.)
18 oz. copper 14" x 20", tinned 1" wid e on
the edges?

The base price for copper sheets is~as-

sumed at 23.75 cents per lb. Price for
hard (C.T.) sheets, 14" x 20", is 23.75 +
5.4 = 29.15 cents per lb.

A sheet 14* x 20" contains 1.94 sq. ft. At
18 ozs. per sq. ft. the sheet weighs 2.18 lbs.

Tinning is figured as so much per square
foot of sheet tinned without regard to
the actual area tinned.

Cost per lb.

2.18 x 29.15 63.55 cents

Tinning 1.94 sq. ft. at

6 cents per sq. ft 11.64 "

Cost per sheet 75.19 cents

= 34.49 cents.

75.19 * 2.18

TABLE IV

(Price List of Extras over Base)

Sheet-Copper Extras
Cold -rolling— Hard (C. T. ) sheets—

14 oz. per sq. ft. and heavier 3 cents per lb.

Lighter than 14 oz 6 cents per lb.

Tinned Hard (C.T.) Sheets require an additional rolling after being
Tinned and carry an extra over above advances of 3^c per lb.

Tinning— [Net extras.]

96 in. and less Over 96 in.

20 in. wide and under 6c. per sq. ft. 7c. per sq. ft.

Over 20 in. to 48 in. incl 7c. " " " 8c. " " "

Over 48 in 8c. " * " 9c. " * "

Tinned both sides double the above prices.

For tinning the edges of sheets, one or both sides, price shall be
the same as for tinning all of one side of the specified sheet. For
orders of less than 100 lbs. where case or crate is necessary, charge
will be made at seller's discretion to cover cost of same.

The process of manufacture is such that a
slight variation in weight is to be expected. In
estimating it is usual to allow 3% extra for this
overweight. After the net amount of copper
needed is determined this percentage is added
and the cost figured.

STRIP COPPER

Strip copper is coming more and more into
use for flashings. It has several advantages; some
of which are its cheaper price; its workability. It
can be purchased in small quantities at a cost
somewhat lower than sheers, and there is prac-
tically no waste. It is made in all widths up to
20 inches.

The process of manufacture is such that straight
edges are obtained. IK-ietofore, this lias been
an objection to long sheets of copper.

Strip copper is readil obtainable in rolls about
75 ft long. It is also made by some mills in
convenient lengths up to 10 feet.

The accompanying Table V gives the sizes and
extras over ba r price for different widths, as well
as prices for cutting into lengths.

It is generally best to cut the copper to length
on the job, for the actual conditions can best
determine the lengths needed.

TABLE V

HhhT Copper in ROLLS

LIST ADVA ES IN CENTS PER POUND OVER BASE PRICE

B. as

Nearest
Decimal bqu alec Over Over Ovtt

Kquival- Weigh t

>ecirnal F
quotient

»n 1

Inch«» (O

0284

uncei per 8 in 12 in. 14 in

Sq. Ft

Sin. 12 in

•

Incl Iru Incl.

Oxer

14 ir

16 in.

Incl

to
18 in.

Incl

< ~r

18 in.

20 in
Incl.

s +

021

01 79

14-11

B. &S
Ga.

Decimal
. Equivalent
in
Inchei

Nearest
Equivalent Over Over
t Weight 2 in. 8 in.
in to to
Ounces per 8 in. 12 in.
Sq. Ft. Incl, Incl.

Over
12 in.

to
14 in.

Incl.

Orei

14 in.
to

16 in.
Incl.

Over
16 in.

to
18 in.

Incl.

Over
18 in.

to
20 in.
Incl.

.0159

6 1 8

0142

1 11-10

7 9

.0126

7 9

0112

6 J 8 | 10

_1L

31
32

0100

2\4

6 J 8 1 10

.0089

I *

• • •

0079

•

33
34

.0071

0063

• . •

i • •

• • «

.0056

• t •

• .

• •

■ •

.0050

Jo I ... I 9 , ,

...

•

Sirei of Roll Copper between gages noted above take price of
nearest gage.

LIST EXTRAS FOR SLITTING AND CUTTING TO

UNU-ORM SPECIFIC LENGTHS

ForCUTTlNGROLLCOPPLR, over 2 inches but not more that

10 inches wide, to IMIORM SPECIFIC LENGTHS, NOT

SQUARED add the fallowing extras to regular list advances.

Shorter
than

12 in.

\ up to

1SJ1

including)

4 1 I

4 up to

(but not
including)

6 i

6 Ft. up to

(but not
uding)

8 Ft.

| It up to

(but not

including)
10

10 Ft.
and over

Special

rrices

(not less

than 6c.)

Ail roll copper cut to length and SQUARED, ref
and length, TAKES PRICE OF SI ET COPPI

TABLE III

HOT ROLLED OR SOFT (ROOFING TEMPER) SHEET COPPER

IN FLAT SHEETS

EXTRAS

Prices are for 100 pounds or more per item in one order

THICKNESS OR WEIGHT
PER SQ. FT. IN OUNCES

WIDTHS

6*
to
10*

both

included

Over
10'

to and

including

20'

Over

20'

to and

including

28'

Over

28'

to and

including

36"

Over

36'

to and

including

48'

Over

48'

to and
ncluding

60'

Over

60'

to and

including

72'

Over

72'

to and

including

108'

LENGTHS

6' to 24' both included

Over 24' to 60'

Over 60' to 96

Over 96' to 120

Over 120' to 200

Any Length up to 24*

Over 24' to 60

Over 60' to 96'

Over 96' to 120*

Over 120' to 200

Any Length up to 60

Over 60' to 96

Over 96' to 120

Over 120* to 200*

Any Length up to 72*

Over 72* to 96

Over 96* to 120"

Over 120' to 200

Any Length up to 72

Over 72' to 96

Over 96' to 1 20'

Over 120' to 200

Any Length up to 72*

Over 72' to 96'

Over 96* to 120

Over 120' to 200'

Any Length up to 72*

Over 72' to 96'

Over 96' to 120

Over 1 20' to 200

Any Length up to 96

Over 96' to 1 20

Over 120* to 200'

THE LONGEST DIMENSION OF ANY SHEET SHALL BE CONSIDERED AS ITS ]

SHEETS OVER V 2 INCH THICK OR OVER 200 INCHES LONG— SPECIAL

GUTTERS, LEADERS AND ACCESSORIES

Sizes, Shapes, List Prices, Etc.

1- EAVES TROUGH

013 GUTTELG-

2- GUTTER HANGER-
S' BASKET STRAINER- 9- LEADER STRAP'

4- GUTfEP. OUTLET- JO- SHOE:

5- ELBOW-

6" SCREEN-

13-CAP

11- NAILS-

12- MITRE

Fig. 84

In Hg. 84 «re shown the various parts of
utters, leaden ;md ace ssories as generally mad
up and stocked by manufacturer. W lnle then
/ine difference in nomenclature throughout the
country, th manufacturers and trade in general

use the designation! given.

IIALF-ROl M) EAVES TROUGH

Mold

mad'

gutt . inclu* ; half-round, are

i tl d< igns. 1 he in t common I

u6 I is th< ii half-round J Trough

ill ti I in 1 if ' .

Kig. 85
U 1 ap Join

1 g<

SB ! 1 1 > Joint

I Alii 1 \!

i^i l'»<: l'l K 1 01 in i i -Hi ad 1 a\ i

I I!

.-•;

I ' . it stocked tin ut the

n\ .1 is cat si/et up to o inch I

| she* t DM t.il * in r.

abo\ ' an mi non use, as bu in

]u ig gutters of a la rg ut usualh hi

1 made a pa * tl, co: ut* up

to 1 na\ be 1 1 and arc si n tl <

oi urge aistnot »g compan

'inn il es.

TABLE VII

List Prices Per Foot of Double-Bead Eaves

Trough

ap Joint

Size, Inches

16 ozs

£0.32

.40

.55

.64

.75

.92 1

I 07

* >• ^^ » ^m ^m

Slip Joint

Size, Inches

6 1

.58

16 ozs

JO. 35

.43

.48

.67

.78

.95

1 10

J * \J

Fig. 87

DouLli-Head Lap Joint

Fig. 87 shows the Double- Head Eaves Trough.
I his, as ma. be noted from its contour, is some-
what stiffer than the Single-Bead. On account of

this stiffness it is possible to place the hangers

slightly farther apait than when the Sin e-Bead
is m ! However, it is much mon difficult I
tf as the inside bead make! it difficult Co line

I inst the roof edge, and to secui< the hanger
It also i stt more than the Single- B< ad That the
>ingl< I uad is in ever) mpd i factor) is in-

ited I the fad thai there is so huh call foi the

Double-Bead that it is no! Itocl d a\m\ has to be

mad* up to Old* i

lialt-i und laves '1 rough is madr in both

lap- and slip-joint st\ le (I i^ 85 and 86). 'I he slip

joint! are used Co pr< ide «| and ( (inac-

tion in long runs of gutters. I h< an m t about

< vi v five Lengths oi fifty fen apart, the joints

l>< . being lapped and solder 1. 'I he slip

lint is not sold e i < 1. In some L tlities the prac-

e is to lap the lengths about three inches and

ise no sol< i or slip join ti I his piacti i is satis-
factory where there is sideul \t to 1 1 1|
ut? f and where t ! < is no dai m «-l l« aves, <t»

topping t Hovs t ud tl m outlet. It is I rdly
■ecessai 1 . to Sta that II is n gutter should
be i ide ii e direction oi the How.

MOI 1)1 I> COPJ I K (,l III KS

I Mil I VI II

S.yle C

5'wlde, JVi'd p, 12'glrili

• *

4 ' V

i *

♦ 4

14'

16'

• 4

S«

: 88

Fig. 89

Fig. 90

Fig. 91

Fig. 92

Fig. 93

Fig. 94

Style D

6" wide, 4"
V " 5"
8" "

deep, 15" girth

** 18" "
534" " 20" "

Style E

6" wide, 41/2" deep, 15" girth
7" " 51/2" " 18" "
8" " 7" " 22" "

Style F

6" wide, 51/2" deep, 18" girth
7" " 534* " 20" "
8" " 6" " 22" "

Style G

6" wide, 51/2" deep, 18" girth
7" " 6V2" " 20"

8" " 7 " " 22"

Style H

6" wide, 4 " deep, 14" girth
7" " 43/4" " 16"
8" " 51/2" " 18"

Style J

6" wide, 53/ 4 " deep, 18" girth
7" " 6V2" " 20" "

a" «* o" ** 24" **

Molded gutters of a quite different style are
shown in Figs. 88 to 94. As the popularity of
these does not warrant their being stocked, they
are usually made up to order and prices may be
had on application only. A study of Table VIII
indicates why these styles do not sell as well as
the Single-Bead Eaves Trough. It is apparent
that Style C, for instance, simple in contour as it is,
has more copper in it than has a similar sized half-
round shape. This adds to the cost.

A 5-inch half-round Single-Bead Eaves Trough
has a girth of 10 inches. Style C gutter, 5 inches
wide, has a girth of 12 inches, 20% more. A 6
inch half-round Single Bead Eaves Trough has a
girth of 12)4 inches. Styles C and H gutters
have a 14 inch girth; style D, 15 inch; styles G
and J, 18 inch. The increase in the amount of
copper varies from 14 to 46%.

END PIECES, CAPS AND OUTLETS

Fig. 96 Fig. 97

Outlet End Piece, Cap and Outlet

Fig. 98
Cap

List Prices

TABLE X

Per Piece of End

and Outlets

Pieces, Caps

Size

16 oz

Ends With Outlets . . .

End Caps Only

Outlets Only

SO. 95

1.05

.40

1.10

.45

.48

1.15
.50

1.30

.50

.60

1.50

.70

Figs. 96 to 98 show the usual accessories for
half-round Eaves Trough which are carried in
stock or can be quickly supplied. It is recom-
mended that these pieces be used wherever neces-
sary as they are factory made and are generally of
stronger construction than those made in the field.

MITRES

Fig. 98

TABLE IX

List Prices Per Piece of Single-Bead Half-

Round Gutter Mitre

Size

16 oz.

W» a &« ^r

Lap Joint

Slip Joint

30.85

$0 95

0.95

1.05

1.00

1.10

1.05

1.15 |

1.15

1.30

8" 1.35

1.50

For double-bead Mitres add 25 cents to prices for single-bead.
In ordering state whether "Inside" or "Outside" Mitres are
wanted, and if Slip Joint, whether "Rights" or "Lefts." Other-
1 wise half of each kind will be sent.

GUTTER HANGERS

There are many kinds of gutter hangers on the
market, most of which are satisfactory for the
special condition for which they are made.
Hangers are made of cast brass and bronze (Figs.
>9 to 103), of strap copper and brass (Figs. 104 and
105) and of heavy copper wire (Fig. 106).

The cast type are the most expensive. As they
are made in two pieces (a "shank" and a "circle' )
t is possible to set the shanks when the building is
being erected and to hang the gutters after the
painting is done, thus avoiding the chance ot
damage to the gutters by the painters' scaffolding

and ladders.

Strap hangers cost less than the cast, and are
in ever way satisfactory. They are simple to
apply and lend themselves to almost every type
of eave.

Wire hangers have to recommend them,
cheapness and ease of application. They are not
as strong as are the -ther two types and for that
ieason must \>c placed cl< r t . < t her .

I lu spacing of cast or strap han£i rs should

not i xceed 36 ir Iks Wire hangers should not

be more than 24 inches apart. Good practice
for tin-be i^ \0 inches and 18 inches respect i ly.

No. 6

I I •» Hg.

No. 10

101 I i« 102 FiE. 103

No. 11

TAB1 E XI

1 1ST I'rke Pi k 1 ■ ■ » PltCi ci Brass Han rj.

AND ClkCl 1 S

■

huh J

-•

. -

;

enable
Bc*d

#12

#1? ki

*2S 00

• I

20 00

16 00 | $

21 00

.* 00

24 00

28 00

| 22 00

J J« 00

1 5b 00

| 2*00

1 | 44 00

J 44 00

In estimating ist hungers be sure to include
the proper size circle with die type of Shank
•elected.

Fig. 104

Fig. 105

1 vBLE Ml

Approximate Price Per Gross of Strap

Hangers

ZC, 1 1 id

Grots Lots

Less Thin GrOM

$ 30 00

$35 00

31 00

36 00

33 00

38 00

WIRE HANGERS

Fig 106

WIRE HANGERS

Ai'Proximaii Prim Per Piece— 1 (JO I

or Less

4\ 5'or ', 15 ccnti

U iic Hangers

LEADERS

Af may be seen in rigs. 107 to 110 leaders oi
•nductors are made in four dil rent t ape*.
;>ecial designs may al be had upon application.
Plain id leaders are not generally stocked by

manufa* turers and jobbti 1 hey are not gene
ally used because, it is stated, they do not r« sist
fie* n* as v II as do the corrugat 1 ones. More-
ovet the Lttfi are more pleasing in appearance
when in place than are the plan nes.

Fig 107

Plain Round Leader

rig. 108

Corrugated Round Leader

List

TABLE XIII

Price Per Lineal Foot of Round, Plain

and Corrugated Leaders

Diameter

3' 4' 5* 6'

Weight — 16 023 . .

30.30

30.36

$0 51

SO. 69 ' SO. 90

16 oz. leaders furnished In 10 foot lengths.

Square Corrugated Leader Plain Rectangular Leader

Fig. 109 Fig. 110

List

TABLE XIV

Price Per Lineal Foot of Square

rugated Copper Leader

Cor-

Size

2* | y

4 ' l

Weight

WW)

(2H'x3tf')

QH'W)

(3^'x5')

16 ozt

30 31

50 40

$0 53

30 75

Figure* In parenthesis nhow actual size.

LEADER HEADS AND STRAPS

Figs. Ill to 117 illustrate ornamental leader
heads and straps of stock design. Special designs
can be quickly made up. Tli<- number required
largely controls the cost of manufacture.

LEADER HEADS

No. 5— Fig. Ill

No. 7— Fig. 112

Fig. 113

Fig. 114

Figs. 114, 115 and 116 are usually carried in
stock.

The number required largely controls the cost
of manufacture. Special designs can be made up
to order from the architect's dimensioned draw-
ings.

ORNAMENTAL LEADER STRAPS

Fig. 117

These styles are not carried generally in stock
but can be quickly made up to order

BRASS I I \l)l R HOOKS

V.i

Fig. 118

Fig 1 1 '

Fir. 12'

Leader hooks and ornam ntal straps sh uld
not be spa \ nior than 6 feet apart.

COPPER ELBOWS AM) MIOI -

Fig. 121
Elbow

Fig. 122
>trb A

Elbow

rig. 123

Shoe

Fig. 115

No. 14— Fig. 1 16

Stock leader accessories, such as elbows, shoes,
and hooks are illustrated in Pigs. 118 to 123.
They are made in many styles and shapes to fit
every condition encountered in building.

TABLE XV

List Prices Per Piece of Copper Elbows and

Shoes

Elbows

Size

Round — Plain or
Corrugated

Weight
16 oz.

SO. 75

31.0

J51 . 50

Square — Corrugated

22. 25 $0. 90

?1. 20 31. 80 g2. 75

Shoes

16 oz.

30.85|31 10,31.65 32.50

3105

31 35

32 00

33 00

WIRE BASKET STRAINERS

Fig. 124

Fig. 125

Wire basket strainers of stock design and as

generally earned by jobbers and sheet metal con-

ctors are hown in I igf 124 and 125. Strainers

t heavier design and \mm- can bt nade up quickly

to specification. Every outlet should be provided
with strainers. Especially is this essential when
the leaders are small or have any elbows, etc.,
where leaves are likely to stick and clog the leader.

TABLE XVI

List Price Per Dozen of Copper Wire Basket

Strainers

Round

Square

Size of
Outlet

Size of
Wire

Per
Dozen

Size of
Outlet

Size of
Wire

Per

Dozen

3180

2'x2'

33.20

17 1 2.90

2'x3*

4.00

4.20

3' i 3'

6.40

7.20

3'x4'

8.00
8.40

8.25

3'x5'

4'x4'

9.00

4'x5'

15
15

10 00

11 00

4'x6*

These strainer* may be had in the round shape made with as
heavy as No. 10 wire. 1 d the square shape the heaviest wire is No. 14.

14-OUNCE COPPER

Coj er gutters and leaders are al made of
14-ounce material. Then i so little call for
them, however, that they are not stocked, and are
made to ord by most manufacturers. 'I he

price difference between 14-ounce and 16-ounce
material is not great and it is strongly recom-
mended that 16-ounce materials be used in all

cases.

STOCK PACKAGES

Practice in making up stock packages varus
iat with did t mills. Because of the
expt se ot iiat ig sheets for shipment the mills
make up packages as large as can be convenient!
handled.

Sheets are always packed flat in rectangular
crates weighing between 500 and 600 pounds.

Strip, <»r roll, copper, ii packed either in long
crates (6 to 10 feet) weighing up to 500 pounds,
(about 50 strips to the box), or in rolls of about

75 feet, four or five rolls to the crate.

Eaves trough, leaders, and mold I gutters
are shipped in crates of 25 lengths, 10 f< i long.

in ices, ridge rolls and similar shapes an shipped
r he same way.

Accessories such as caps and mitres, elbows
and shoes, hangers, leader heads, lead* r straps
vire basket strainers and snow guards are shipped
in cartons, in lots of fifties, hundreds, or grosses
depending upon the size.

COPPER Xs? BRASS

RESEARCH ASSOCIATION

25 Broadway, New York

Members

COPPER MINING COMPANIES

W IERIC AN SMELTING & REFINING CO.

120 Broadway, New York

ANACONDA COPPER MINING COMPANY

25 Broadway, New York

ARIZONA COMMERCIAL MINING CO.

50 Congress St., Boston, Mass.

BRADEN COPPER COMPANY

120 Broadway, New York

CALUMET & ARIZONA MINING COMPANY

Calumet, Mich.

CALUMET & HECLA CONSOLIDATED COPPER
COMPANY

12 Ashburton PL, -Boston, Mass.

CHILE EXPLORATION COMPANY
25 Broadway, New York

CHINO COPPER COMPANY

25 Broad St., New York

COPPER RANGE CO.

52 Broadway, New York

ENGELS COPPER MINING COMPANY

San Francisco, Cal.

THE GRANBY CONSOLIDATED MINING,
SMELTING & POWER COMPANY, LTD.

25 Broad St., New York

GREENE CANANEA COPPER COMPANY

25 Broadway, New York

INSPIRATION CONSOLIDATED COPPER CO
25 Broadway, New York

ISLE ROYALE COPPER CO.

12 Ashburton Place Boston, Mass.

KENNECOTT COPPER CORPORATION

120 Broadway, New York

MIAMI COPPER COMPANY

61 Broadway, New York

MOTHER LODE COALITION MINES CO.

120 Broadway, New York

NEVADA CONSOLIDATED COPPER CO.
25 Broad St., New York

NEW CORNELIA COPPER COMPANY

Calumet, Mich.

OLD_ DOMINION COMPANY

50 Congress St., Boston, Mass.

PHELPS DODGE CORPORATION

99 John St., New York

RAY CONSOLIDATED COPPER COMPANY

25 Broad St., New York

SHATTUCK ARIZONA COPPER COMPANY

120 Broadway, New York

UNITED VERDE EXTENSION MINING CO.

233 Broadway, New York

UTAH COPPER COMPANY

25 Broad St., New York

WHITE PINE COPPER CO.

12 Ashburton Place, Boston, Mass.

COPPER AND BRASS FABRICATING AND DISTRIBUTING COMPANIES

THE AMERICAN BRASS COMPANY

General Offices, Waterbury, Conn.

AMERICAN SMELTING & REFINING CO.

120 Broadway, New York

ANACONDA COPPER MINING COMPANY

25 Broadway, New York

BRIDGEPORT BRASS COMPANY
East Main St., Bridgeport, Conn.

CHASE METAL WORKS
WATERBURY MANUFACTURING CO.

(Divisions of Chase Companies, Inc.)
Waterbury, Conn.

T. E. CONKLIN BRASS & COPPER CO., II

54 Lafayette St., New York

DALLAS BRASS & COPPER COMPANY

820 New Orleans St., Chicago, III.

U. T. HUNGERFORD BRASS & COPPER CO

80 Lafayette St., New York City

C. G. HUSSEY & CO.

2850 Second Ave., Pittsburgh, Pa.

MERCHANT & EVANS CO.

Washington Ave. and 21st St., Philadelphia, Pa

MICHIGAN COPPER & BRASS CO.

Detroit, Mich.

THE NATIONAL BRASS & COPPER CO.

Lisbon, Ohio

NEW ENGLAND BRASS CO.
Park St., Taunton, Mass.

THE NEW JERSEY WIRE CLOTH CO.
Main Office, Trenton. N. J.

THE J. M. & L. A. OSBORN CO.

1541-51 East 38th St., Cleveland, Ohio

THE PAPER AND TEXTILE MACHINERY CO.

Sandusky, Ohio

RICHARDS & CO., Inc.

377 Commercial St.. Boston, Mass.

ROME BRASS & COPPER CO.

Dominick & Bouck Sts., Rome, N. Y.

SCOVILL MANUFACTURING CO.

Waterbury, Conn.

TAUNTON-NEW BEDFORD COPPER CO.

267 West Water St., Taunton, Mass.

[BLANK PAGE]

CCA

INTF RNATION A

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Full text of "Copper flashings : a handbook of data on the use of copper as a flashing material with standard details of construction & specifications for sheet-copper work."

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